An Edible Voyage

January 2017 Serving only donuts and filter coffee, Pyshechnaya is somewhat of a St Petersburg institution so don't be surprised to find a queue winding its way out of the door.  Cups of coffee and plates of light, fluffy, sugary doughnuts, hot from the fryer, are served at lightening speed at mind-blowingly cheap prices.  Grab yourself a plate (one each doesn't cut it here!) and huddle at the counter. Find them at Pyshechnaya.

January 2017 Breakfast Russian style.  My first experience of millet porridge, I wasn't sold.  The soft, fluffy texture felt a little sludgy - I prefer a grain with a little bit to it, although the pumpkin seeds did add a crunchy contrast.  The savoury, earthiness of the roast pumpkin meant that for me, the dish was less sweet than I would have preferred for breakfast, and was overall rather bland.

January 2017 Pickled herring with onions, served as an appetiser. Find it at Zoom Cafe, where you can pass the time releasing your inner child by drawing on the paper table cloths with the array of coloured pencils that are provided.

January 2017 Almost bite sized, these meat filled dumplings are served with sour cream and make a great accompaniment to a beer.  Vareniki are similar but filled with potato or cheese, or sweet jam and served as dessert.  Find them on most restaurant menus.  At Pelmenya (6 branches across the city) which serves only dumplings, you can compare pelmeni and vareniki with their Italian (ravioli), Chinese (jiaozi) and Georgian counterparts. (khinkali).

January 2017 Thin like crepes, try blinis 'Russian style' with caviar and sour cream. Find them in Cafe Singer, and enjoy a moment of decadence in the opulent tea room with huge arched windows overlooking Nevsky Prospekt and the impressive Kazansky cathedral.  Then take a wander downstairs to Dom Knigi, the city's famous bookshop which is housed on the ground floor of this stunning building.

January 2017 Solyanka, a soup of meat and pickled vegetables has a piquant, briny flavour.

January 2017 Menus in Russia often include dishes using meats we would never dream of eating in the UK. Bear burgers, a little sweeter than venison but with a very course texture. Beaver sausages, a similar flavour to pork, with a liver-like tang.

January 2017 Crispy wafer rolls filled with whipped cream.  A sinfully delicious accompaniment to a coffee. Find them at cafes and bakeries around the city.

September 2019 I fell in love with Rosendahls Tradgard at first sight.  This beautiful farm to fork garden harvests their own vegetables, herbs and fruits to create delicious offerings bursting with seasonal flavours in their garden cafe and wood-fired bakery.  The setting is idyllic, accessed by a path winding through flowering gardens, and you will be spoilt for choice by the array of open sandwiches, light snacks, hearty meals and decadent cakes, and that's just in the cafe! On site they also have a wood-fired bakery with the most delicious cardamom buns and loaves of bread warm from the oven.   Take a book and enjoy the tranquillity, the fresh air and the glorious aromas of flowers and baking bread.    

September 2019 Wandering the streets of Stockholm, I passed a building which looked like one of the Scandi design shops filled with beautiful homewares that are dotted along the streets of the city, so in I went.  I discovered that it was actually a cafe, specialising in plant-based drinks and snacks, with an airy, tranquil vibe - a calm haven from the hustle and bustle of the capital.  Hot drinks are served with your choice of plant-based milk, and there are several flavours of smoothie bowls to get your fill of nutrients. In true hipster cafe style, I couldn't find it's name anywhere, but find it around Drottninggatan 28 in Stockholm.

April 2020 Homemade gnocchi is great, and a far cry from the stodgy shop bought stuff.  I'm always slightly put off from making it because I don't seem to be able to stop my whole kitchen being stuck together but gnocchi dough...  I recently came across a recipe where it is all contained within a food processor  - this sounded right up my street!  It also used 60% swede, 30% potato which sounded like an intriguing twist.   Served with punchy, zingy wild garlic pesto, asparagus fresh from the farm, sweet and nutty parmesan, and juicy pops of charred cherry tomatoes, this is a dinner I'm looking forward to recreating!

March 2018 If you're craving a good espresso-based coffee, there are a couple of places where you can get your fix - Karakol Coffee in Karakol, and cosy Bublik in Bishkek.

March 2018 Thick noodles with vegetables, in a vinegary hot pepper broth.

March 2018 A simple dish which looks very plain, but somehow every mouthful is full of flavour.  Chunks of lamb and carrot are fried with onion and garlic, and mixed with cooked rice.  Told you it was simple! But there was something really satisfying about it that meant I was happy to eat it day after day. Find it on most restaurant menus in Kyrgyzstan.  It's also often served during home stays.

April 2020 Chicory, also known as endive, is one of my favourite ingredients.  Crisp and bitter in salads; mellow, sweet and nutty when cooked.  For this risotto, I cooked the chicory for only a few minutes so that it still had some bite to stand up against the softness of the arborio rice, and to allow the earthy, nutty flavours to shine through.  Stringy, molten chunks of parmesan cheese added sweetness and moorish umaminess, and I enjoyed the satisfying crunch of chopped almonds.  This was a wholesome, hearty dish which managed to maintain a freshness at the same time. 

April 2020 Mackerel is one of my favourite fish - I love the rich flavour and the moist, oily texture, and it makes so many other ingredients really shine.  And when you're a little bit salty from a day on a fishing boat in Devon, what could be better than cooking up the fruits of your labour!   Simply grilled, oily, melt in the mouth fish, is balanced by an acidic, punchy dressing of cider vinegar and mustard.  Crunchy, aniseedy fennel, soft potatoes, zesty lemon, and the slight crunch of peppery leaves fresh from the farm combine to make this a truly delicious light and fresh healthy dinner, perfect for a warm evening.

March 2018 There's nothing more satisfying than eating food you have foraged and had to work for.  Kuurdak, one of the oldest dishes in Kyrgyz cuisine, is traditionally made with lamb, however after a day riding around the hills near Bokonbayevo with our berkutchi, the lady we were staying with used the rabbit our eagle had caught that afternoon to make the dish.  The meat and offal is fried in fat with plenty of onions and spices, and simply served with boiled potatoes.  A subtle meat flavour, a little earthier than chicken, with bags of freshness shining through.

March 2018 The national dish of Kyrgyzstan, this just had to be tried.  The name translates as 'five fingers', possibly because it is traditionally eaten with the hands - I definitely was not skilled enough to eat noodles and broth with my hands so I had to cheat and opt for utensils.   Boiled horse meat and it's broth are served on a bed of noodles.  It's hearty, rich, meaty, a little greasy and incredibly filling - great for a nomadic lifestyle but difficult to finish when your only exercise for the day is wandering around a city.  Find it on most restaurant menus in Bishkek.

March 2018  Cooked in a tandyr clay oven and decorated with the baker's individual stamp, t his pretty disc of bread is found on every street corner in Kyrgyzstan, and eaten with every meal.  .

March 2018 Manty are large steamed dumplings, filled with ground lamb, often served with yogurt and tomato sauce.  Find them on street stalls or at restaurants all around Bishkek. 

March 2018 Hot, snack size buns of bread or pastry dough, filled with minced lamb.  Find them at stalls on the streets of Kazakhstan or at restaurants. 

March 2018 Kymyz, or kumis, is commonly found on the streets of Bishkek where stall holders pour it to order from large vats.  A bit like watery, slightly sour milk, it is an acquired taste!

April 2020 This is a really satisfying dinner that showcases many seasonal flavours.  Whole courgettes baked in a foil parcel with fennel, vine tomatoes, chilli, lemon juice and whole cloves of garlic, served with lemon zest infused breadcrumbs, pine nuts and orzo.  The juicy courgette is lovely with the crunch of breadcrumbs, soft, aniseedy fennel, and the sweet burst of vine tomatoes.  Just enough heat from the chilli allows the fresh flavours to shine, the lemon keeps it refreshing, and the pops of rich nuttiness from the pine nuts bring it all together.  Personally I didn't feel it needs the orzo as it's substantial enough with the breadcrumbs. 

March 2018 Chechil is a smoked cheese, a little salty, chewy and firm like mozzarella, and braided giving a feel in the mouth I really enjoyed.  An addictive on the go snack or accompaniment to a beer. Find it at many corner shops and bars. 

March 2018 You need a good breakfast to keep your energy up for a day in the life of a burkutchu (eagle hunter).  Semolina porridge served with kaymak, a local dairy product similar to clotted cream, is certainly hearty, but what would a meal in Kyrgyzstan be without adding butter and one of the wide varieties of jam that adorn every table - it also adds flavour and makes it much less bland.  

March 2018 As in many nations, tea is a popular drink in Kyrgyzstan.  A Kyrgyzstan table is almost always adorned with butter and multiple flavours of  jam, and at the house of the family we stayed with in Bokonbayevo, butter and raspberry jam are added to tea to sweeten it and set you up for a day's hunting. 

April 2020 Since we can't go out to explore the world at the moment, I have brought the world to me!  Papanasi, cottage cheese 'doughnuts', served with yogurt, berries and a dusting of icing sugar, make a delicious and unusual brunch.  Crispy and hot on the outside, soft and creamy in the middle, they have all the best parts of a doughnut, whilst being light and packed full of protein.  Enjoy!

May 2019 There are some great coffee roasters in Edinburgh.  Cairngorm Coffee have two branches in the city - the Melville Place branch is light, bright and airy, the Frederick St branch a cosy, underground cave.  Both have expertly brewed coffee and tasty food offerings, from delicious toasted sandwiches, to banana bread with exciting toppings. If it's just excellent coffee you're after, head to one of Artisan Roast Coffee Roasters three city branches for the best speciality coffee in Edinburgh. 

April 2019 Since discovering how easy it is to make no churn ice cream - just whipped cream, condensed milk and whatever flavouring you desire, I've had a lot of fun trying out new creations, including this Easter Special.  A hot cross bun, broken in to small pieces and soaked with some extra raisins in whisky, folded in to the ice cream base with a little extra mixed spice, and then served in a toasted hot cross bun.  The warmth of the bun works wonderfully with the cold ice cream, and you get the texture of a hot cross bun, with an intensified flavour coming through from the ice cream.  A definite Easter success!   

April 2020 Sometimes I just crave a good, humble banana bread.  During lockdown, 'normal' flour has been difficult to get hold of so I branched out and used wholemeal spelt flour.  To make it a little more gilt free, I replaced butter with coconut oil, and sugar with honey.  A lovely, nutty flavour but a little dry, I decided to jazz it up and turn it in to an exciting brunch.  Firstly piercing holes in the banana bread and pouring over a simple sugar syrup, before slicing, toasting and topping with coconut cream, whisky caramelised banana, cocoa nibs and a drizzle of honey.  Moist, creamy, crunchy and sweet, with a little kick of whisky, all at the the same time.  A decadent brunch!   

November 2019 For a wonderful selection of expertly baked sourdough, pastries and cakes, as well as pretty god coffee, head to Aran Bakery.  Classic sourdough, several flavours of focaccia, rye bread and seeded buns sit alongside a tempting array of sweet treats - think raspberry and yogurt cake, spiced plum brioche and pistachio croissants - shouting at me to try them having only previously had their more commonly found almond counterpart.  I enjoyed the earthy nuttiness of the pistachio, a little less sickly than almond, but I found the croissant a little crisp for my liking, lacking that all important gooey frangipane centre. Find these delights at Aran Bakery in Dunkeld and enjoy with a flat white.  

Spring and Winter 2019 As soon as I arrived at The Free Company, I feel in love with the place.  Accessed via lots of wiggly country lanes, culminating in a farm track, I was welcomed by fairy lights and benches around a fire pit, before being ushered in to a cosy, log burner warmed bunker for cocktails. What a start to an evening!  The concept is simple, you pay what you think the evening is worth - 6 courses showcasing the best of the farm's organic produce that season, served at communal tables in the barn's rustic loft.   A highlight for me is always the bread which is baked moments before serving.  For winter, pork rendered focaccia with St Andrews Cheddar and mushroom duxelle - rich, luxurious, and delightfully naughty tasting.  For spring, yogurt flatbreads warm from the fire, the silky honey butter and crunchy smoked hazelnut dukkah pairing wonderfully with the light charring - a taste and texture sensation! Fazzoletti (handke...

September 2019 Slow-cooked moose is incredibly tender, and with a gamey flavour it works perfectly with the depth of the red wine and earthiness of the mushrooms of a Bourginon.

September 2019 If you're on the hunt to try some locally brewed beer, head to Holy Moly for a selection that includes Poppels, based just east of Gothenburg in Jonsered, and Stigbergets Bryggeri.  Soak up the beer with the small but well executed menu of Mexican dishes, such as quesadillas and freshly cooked tacos - the fish, and spicy pulled jackfruit fillings are highly recommended!

September 2019 Simply named 'chocolate biscuit', this is so much more than a chocolate biscuit!  A little bit sweet, a little bit chewy, a little bit nutty, delicate meringue and almond base contrasts with silky smooth chocolate buttercream, and glazed in crisp chocolate to give a satisfying crunch as you bite through in to the soft layers below.   Find it at Abisko STF hut, Sweden.

September 2019 Beerbliotek brew some tasty and unusual beers at their craft brewey.  This passion fruit and ginger sour ale was fruity, spicy and tart all at the same time. Find it at the Beerbliotek Tap Room in Gothenburg.