An Edible Voyage

October 2021 Wherever I am, I'm all for living off whatever is locally produced or foraged, and if there's a sign for something homemade, I'm sold.  That's why I was a little apprehensive when my friend told me she had booked a tapas restaurant for our first night in the Scilly Isles.  As it turned out, it was a wonderful thing - the fresh from the sea fish I craved with a Spanish twist, and the added bonus of Mediterranean inspired mosaic tables along the beachfront.  What could be better than devouring a large slab of freshly caught flaky hake cooked with white wine, saffron, olives and almonds, whilst the sun warmed my face and boats bobbed on the sparkling turquoise sea mere metres from me? Other fish offerings include chermoula mackerel, and fried cod balls, and there are plenty of tapas classics, as well as twists on classics, to satisfy both carnivores and alternative diets.  Anchovy stuffed tortilla was another highlight for me.  Initially unsure whether...

May 2021 I always find that sun plus a salty breeze in the air makes me crave fish and seafood straight from the ocean, and The Crab Shed is just the place for satisfying that craving.  Situated on the quay, fish is landed straight on to their doorstep.  This is some seriously fresh fish.  The menu keeps things simple, allowing the flavours of the fish and seafood to take centre stage.   I don't usually go for fish and chips because I don't generally like batter, or chips...weird I know! But a taste of my partner's battered haddock could almost persuade me otherwise - so crispy and so incredibly light. Find The Crab Shed in the Creek car park, a little way from the hubbub of the town centre on the tranquil water's edge behind Island Street. 

November 2020 I'm a real fan of oysters - that refreshing saltiness that's like no other, like gulping down a breath of sea air.  When I lived in Melbourne, one of my guilty pleasures was go to the South Melbourne Market and choose myself a couple of $1 oysters to eat then and there, standing at the market stall.  So when I saw a sign for The Oyster Shed in Carbost, I had to check it out.   Paul opened The Oyster Shed in 2012, selling the oysters which he farms in Loch Harport to give everyone the opportunity to enjoy fresh Hebredian seafood.  As well as oysters, there's a wide variety of both hot and cold seafood and fish to enjoy there, perched around the occasional tables.  Grab a plate and stand outside, looking over the loch with the breeze in your hair as you savour the freshest local produce. There's also a deli style shop with an enticing display of bisques, pates, smoked and fresh fish, and some basics such as Arborio rice so you can rustle up a de...

November 2020 For all things smoked, you can't miss the Ullapool Smokehouse, a traditional smokery in the fishing village of Ullapool.  Using just salmon, salt and smoke, will you opt for malt whisky cold smoked salmon or heather honey hot roast salmon?  Whichever you go for, you'll be assured the highest quality combined with the distinctive flavours of Scotland.  For cheese lovers, I also highly recommend the very moorish oak smoked mature Scottish cheese. Find Ullapool Smokehouse on the edge of the town in the Morefield industrial estate.

September 2020 In the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is a beautiful long sandy beach and top surf spot.   Just up above the beach, there is a colourful little boat, serving up delicious, unusual and fresh from sea to plate fare.   Why not give weekend brunch a coastal twist with a fish butty?   Freshly caught each day, the fish could be anything from mackerel to plaice to coley.   But whatever the sea lucky dip offers up, it’s sure to be the freshest fish pan fried to order and served in a bun with the famous KelpChup (a ketchup type condiment made from locally foraged seaweed), homemade pickles and seaweed chilli sauce.   Then take a stroll down to the rocks to eat whilst being serenaded by the crashing waves, or get the wind in your hair as you walk across the cliff tops and explore the seaweed drying hut. Find Café Mor in the car park at Freshwater West beach.   They also serve bacon butties, meat and veggie black bean burgers, and crab and lobster ...

 August 2019 Being so close to the sea at all times on Sao Miguel, you will no doubt have cravings for fresh fish and seafood at some point.   At Gastronomo, an atmospheric local’s restaurant 20 minutes walk along the sea front from Ponta Delgada centre, the fish that is cooked is up to you.   You discuss with the waiter the kind of fish you’re after and they will bring a selection to your table.   Once you’ve made your choice, it’s taken to the chef to whip up a feast. Find Gastronomo on Rua da Boa Nova, less than a mile east of Ponta Delgada’s centre.

 August 2019 Comur is somewhat of an institution in Portugal, and the Azores aren’t left out, with Ponta Delgada having it’s own branch.   This shop sells nothing but tinned fish, colourful cans filling the walls, floor to ceiling.   The most succulent tuna is sold in golden tins that look just like a solid bar of gold, and sardine cans are available with individual designs for each year of the last century, marking an event that was celebrated that year.   Whether you like fish or not, this unusually and intriguingly designed shop should not be missed. Find it on Rua do Melo in Ponta Delgada.

July 2020 For a fish lover, Pinney's in Orford is a little slice of heaven.  Here they have smokehouses, smoking fish that is sustainable caught, and landed at Butley Creek, a stones throw from the shop.  Stock up on a whole range of smoked fish, pates and accompaniments, there's a fresh fish counter too.  I highly recommend the smoked mackerel.  Ready to eat, it has a distinctive smoky flavour, a rich texture, and a subtle sweetness, making a delicious on the go snack, gourmet picnic or al fresco feast served with colourful salads. Find Pinney's down by Butley Creek in Orford.  They also sell oysters.

May 2020 Niall Keating.  The name may ring a bell...  The much celebrated winner of the Great British Menu 2020 and the Executive Chef of The Dining Room at the exclusive Cotswolds manor house, Whatley Manor.  This is the brain behind the Paradise Carriage, a converted trailer food truck which he used to deliver meals to key workers during the Covid lockdown around his home town or Stoke on Trent, before taking it to Whatley Manor to act as a drive through, gourmet style.   The menu changes weekly and fellow chefs make guest appearances to host pop up nights.  The food is comforting, using the simplest of ingredients but of the finest quality, think the humble kebab elevated to the highest of levels.   I sampled the anything but plain fish finger sandwich.  Melt in the mouth, juicey Cornish turbot in the crispest of batter with tangy gherkin and lemon mayonnaise and peppery watercress, bursting from a rich brioche roll.  Finge...

June 2020 I have lived in and around Oxford for several years, and, on many occasions, friends have mentioned the Aldens fish market to me but I seem to always forget when I'm in the area.  Having coincidentally walked passed it last week, I vowed to make a weekend trip.  There is certainly no shortage of fish, the majority of which is from the British south coast.  Alongside plaice, sole, tuna and oysters, were some sea trout steaks which I don't believe I've ever tried before.  I cooked this huge, meaty steak stuffed with coriander butter and finished with lemon juice and parsley.  Find Aldens on Osney Mead, oxford.  They also sell locally brewed beer, wine, vegetables, seaweed, smoked fish and store cupboard ingredients, as well as fish and chips cooked to order.  

October 2019 Kodbyen, or meatpacking district, was once a run-down industrialised part of town, but no longer.  Trendy restaurants and craft beer halls have moved in to the derelict warehouses, food trucks roll up every spring and summer weekend, doling out a tempting array of world cuisine, and the area buzzes with the chit chatter of locals and tourists alike. At Kodbyens Fiskebar, beautifully presented plates of the freshest fish and dainty desserts are served alongside more low-key newspaper cones of fish and chips and balls of sourdough, warm from the oven. Go to Kodbyen if for no other reason for the atmosphere and grab a beer (if you can ever choose from their wall of beer taps) from Warpigs Brewpub whilst you peruse the variety of tantalising food establishments. 

Whether it's BBQ'd on the beach, daing dried and salted on a street stall, or grilled to order at a market, there's no shortage of delicious fresh fish in the Philippines.    Head to Makati market in Manila to join the crowds jostling for whole grilled Batangas fish stuffed with tomato and peppers.

The Pantanal is brimming with piranha.  All you need is a fishing rod and a cow heart (or similar) to lure them in...  Fried up, there's a lot of bone and not a great deal of flesh, but the crispy tails are particularly good, and if you caught it yourself it will taste even better!