An Edible Voyage

And when you’re in need of some vegetables (a rare find in Argentina!)… Head to Viva La Pepa in El Calafate.    Specialising in crepes and with a great ethos behind them of wanting to create a place for people to be able to take a pause, they have every sweet and savoury crepe filling imaginable, from those stuffed with lamb, to aubergine and spinach, to trout with leek in lemon sauce, to stewed apples with calafate icecream.    And when I say stuffed, I mean stuffed.    Like their length of the table sandwiches on home-made bread, they are filled to bursting which was perfect when I was in need of a vegetable hit after weeks of meat.    With its flower filled garden, chirpy music and colourful wooden chairs, it makes you feel happy when you walk in, and just a couple of metres from the main street, it’s a tranquil haven from the hustle and bustle.    The staff are genuinely friendly, every table receives complimentary carrot stic...

January 2020 This sweet treat says it all about the nation’s love for dulce de leche.    Traditionally two crumbly, softer than shortbread biscuits sandwiched with a thick smear of dulce de leche, there are countless variations.    From white, dark or milk chocolate enrobed classics, to chocolate biscuits forming the sandwich, to biscuits wrapped around calafate jam, to coconut dusted.    Bite sized to side plate sized, I even saw a triple alfajores comprising 3 biscuits and 2 layers of dulce de leche – a sweet club sandwich.   Find them everywhere - in cafes, panaderias, street stalls and artisan shops.    My favourite was a calafate jam filled, white chocolate enrobed alfajores from Chaltenos in El Chalten.    Made on the premises, the chocolate coating gave a satisfying crunch to an otherwise soft snack, the jam was fruity and flavourful, the biscuit wasn’t powdery like others I’ve tried, and it was the perfect size to e...

January 2020 Patagonia km 24.7 v La Zhorra beer Patagonia km 24.7 is brewed with Patagonian hops in Buenos Aires, and named after the place where their microbrewery in San Carolos de Bariloche is situated along route 77.    I found it a bit wishy-washy, with a watery lager taste.    With several craft offerings, I had high hopes for the La Zhorra microbrewery in El Calafate (there’s also a tap room in El Chalten).    I opted for the honey beer which had lovely honey notes without being overly sweet, but unfortunately had a metallic after taste.    I’d definitely be keen to try their other beers though.

January 2020 El Calafate is named after this Patagonian berry, said to be similar to a blueberry.  I actually found this jam to have an unsatisfyingly smooth texture and tasted more like a poor quality strawberry jam.    Maybe the tantalising purple ice cream better showcases this native fruit, although I didn’t try it. Find both the jam and ice cream in many shops lining the main streets of El Calafate and El Chalten.