An Edible Voyage

September 2021 Having hiked 166km across the Apennine mountains on the Via Degli Dei, I was in dire need of excellent coffee.  Fortunately, two places in Florence came up trumps, both handily in the city centre and with only a short walk between, it was easy to get my caffeine kick!  First up, Coffee Mantra on Via della Mattonaia serves Gearbox coffee, roasted just down the road in Florence.  The flat white was expertly crafted and there’s also a selection of hand brews on offer. Next up, Melaleuca, an Australian owned café and bakery alongside the Arno River, serving up bagels, avocado toast on sourdough and tortillas, cakes, cinnamon buns and great coffee.  I was really looking forward to sampling beans from another small-scale local Florence roaster, D612 Coffee Roasters, and they didn’t disappoint.  The homemade cold brew was refreshing, flavoursome and exactly what I needed on a warm day, deliciously citrusy served with a slice of orange.  As well as...

October 2021 Despite Italy's reputation for excellent coffee, being a flat white sort of a girl, I'm generally not taken with Italian coffee, finding espressos too intense and cappuccinos too weak and frothy.  Pappare, in Bologna's historic centre, did come up trumps with an excellent cappuccino though.  Not only that, the display of croissants was particularly exciting, with white and dark chocolate stuffed charcoal croissants balanced by the nuttiness of sesame, alongside pistachio cream, and vegan dark chocolate and raspberry.  And there was definitely no shortage of filling.  One might be forgiven for thinking there was too much chocolate ganache stuffed in to my croissant as every bite caused another blob too ooze out, but really, can there ever be too much filling?!  They also offer hand brew coffee, as well as savoury pastries, sandwiches, and more substantial brunch/ lunch. Find Pappare on Via De' Giudei. Another coffee that really has to be tried once b...

October 2021 If there's one thing that the Scilly Isles aren't short of, other than incredible views, endless white sand beaches and an abundance of turquoise sea, it's homemade cakes.  St Mary's is dotted with cafes, commandeering beautiful coastal views and hidden along woodland paths, and one could be forgiven for thinking there's a inter-cafe cake competition going on.   Having spent a very strenuous week sampling many of them, I can conclude that Longstone Cafe wins it for me.  Vegan lime and homegrown courgette sits alongside an ingenious banoffee cake - think banoffee pie but with a banana bread base, and the absolute star of the show, the simple but absolutely perfect Victoria Sponge - an enormous wedge of the lightest, fluffiest sponge, filled with strawberry jam and oozing a generous layer of whipped cream. Redruth roasted Cornish Coffee beans are used in the espresso based beverages, with milk steamed well to make a delicious flat white.  In the drink...

August 2021 Whilst out for dinner with a friend, I casually mentioned my upcoming trip to Moldova and she was straight on to her coffee app to inform me that there are precisely two speciality coffee shops in Chisinau.  So, obviously, I had to visit both! First up was YOCO Coffee And Drinks.  Along the M3, the main road running south out of the city, around 4 miles from the city centre, it's not the most convenient place to get to, but I decided to combine it with my morning run (not my most scenic...), much to the bemusement of all the locals who were probably wondering why on earth I was trying to jog down pavements which are consistently more hole than paving.  Once inside though, it's the complete opposite of the Chisinau traffic chaos outside, cool and calm with simple yet sophisticated decor.  The flat white was exceptional and they make their own cold brew. Next up was the much more accessible Pasio.  The outside looked a bit like a chain coffee shop and ...

August 2021 Northern Cyprus lured me with it's sunshine and Mediterranean vibes, but ruggedness and lack of tourists compared to the south of the island. During my stay at Gillham Village in Ilgaz, I went for an explore.  Flanked by awe inspiring mountains, this sleepy village does well at keeping it's awesome views a secret.  Marrows grow from the smallest of cracks along the street, dogs laze in the sunshine, and men lounge in plastic chairs watching TV on the terrace of the Post Office.  For the best view in the village, take a seat on the top floor of the open sided Ilgaz cafe and sip Turkish coffee whilst looking out over the jaw-droppingly enormous mountains and down the valley to the sea. Find Ilgaz cafe in the middle of the village - you can't miss it!  They also did what seemed to be a popular and hearty breakfast. 

July 2021 Cycling along the stunning, if hilly(!), coastal road from Ballycastle to Giant's Causeway, distracted by the arc of white sand against the sparkling turquoise sea that is White Park Bay, I almost didn't spot Bothy.  But something about the cosiness of the word must have registered with my brain so I stopped to investigate.  From the name, I was expecting small and eclectic.  Bothy is surprisingly large, although definitely has the eclectic factor, with a conservatory as well as a covered outdoors, complete with wood fired pizza oven. Taking inspiration from mountain bothies, they aim to recreate the comfort of "a roof over our heads; a shelter from the weather; a place to rest, eat and warm up; a haven". They want people to be able to " wander in, settle back and unwind. Curl up and read a book, or just enjoy the solitude". I found it a little busy for that - it's definitely a very popular pit stop. They roast their own coffee (bags of bea...

July 2021 Lost and Found Cafe is verging on perfection.  A short stroll along the beautiful north coast of Northern Ireland, a few minutes away from the hubbub of Portstewart Strand, nestles this friendly brew bar and eatery.   Enjoy expertly crafted espresso based coffee and innovative brunch at the stools in front of the enormous window overlooking the sea.  Salty feta, nutty tahini and the sweetness of honey, an inspired and utterly delicious toastie that I will definitely be recreating at home.    Don't leave without choosing one of their exciting homemade sweet treats (and maybe one to take home too!).  Bigger than your head cookie sandwiches are enough for several sittings, and cakes change with the seasons. Find Lost and Found Cafe on Berne Road, just east of Portstewart Strand.

May 2021 Walking through the residential streets of Cardiff's Roath, spotting the haunts of my student days, the last thing I expected to come across was an old garage, mid-terrace, housing a sourdough bakery.  Despite the small shop front, the bakery has a cavernous interior, plenty of space for all manner of sourdough loaves, including ones made with quinoa, and yesterday's bread going cheap.   In the sweet treats line up, 6 flavours of doughnut sit alongside choc chip pretzel cookies, and their signature Queens - no less than 27 layers of melt in the mouth, flaky pastry, similar to a round, sugar-dusted croissant, filled with the flavour of the month which changes with the seasons.  Being the last day of the month, I just managed to get my hands on May's offering - the PBJ Queen.  The zingiest raspberry jam marbled with peanut butter diplomat cream - a genius invention I have to say, oozing with every bite from the soft, sugary Queen.  This really was th...

June 2021 When researching my Northern Ireland trip, I had no doubt I'd come across many a food and coffee place to add to my 'to try' list in Belfast, but I fully expected that once I was out in the 'wilds' of my campsite, any food and drink excitement would be limited by my (lack of) camping stove creativity.  To my delight, I was proved wrong.  Unexpectedly, the seaside town of Ballycastle harbours Ursa Minor, a sourdough bakery and treasure trove of local produce.  Sourdough loaves and seasonally flavoured buns and baked goods fill the window, whilst the rest of the shop bursts with locally made preserves and condiments in all manner of exciting flavours - lemon and fennel, strawberries preserved in acacia honey and rayu (Japanese chilli oil) jumped out at me, alongside delicious kombucha and all sorts of other delights. Sit in and enjoy a quality coffee - they offer all the espresso based staples, or take your haul down to the beach for a gourmet picnic. Find U...

June 2021 A perfect flat white in Belfast's city centre, with the added bonus that it's made with beans roasted in the city by Root and Branch.  Whilst you're there, I challenge you not to be tempted by the elaborate doughnuts - rhubarb and custard meringue pie, biscoff, the seasonal special creme brulee... Find Oh Donuts and Coffee on Upper Arthur Street, close to the City Hall.  They also sell Root and Branch beans as well as some guest specials. Napoleon Coffee on Ormeau Avenue also do great coffee as well as unusual iced drinks - passionfruit and lime iced tea sounds like the ultimate refreshment, and a couple of sandwiches.  I can highly recommend the sticky sesame cauliflower and crunchy purple cabbage flat bread.

June 2021 Sourdough, exciting viennoiserie, great coffee, canal-side, revived warehouses... Pollen instantly reminded me of Northern Rye in Newcastle.  There's a smaller range of baked goods but they're equally as innovative - pineapple and coconut twice baked croissant is basically a socially acceptable way to have a Pina Colada for breakfast... The flat whites are expertly crafted using Hasbean beans, there's a squeezing machine for the sweetest, freshest OJ, a selection of breakfast baps served in potato sourdough rolls.  But the absolute star of the show has to be the long fermented sourdough.  By far the very best I've ever had (and I've sampled a lot of excellent sourdough!).  The crust was caramelised and blistered to perfection, the inside so soft and chewy at the same time, with a lovely full flavour.  Presented warm from the oven in to my hands, I could have devoured the whole loaf plain, no butter needed (and nearly did!). Get your goods and sit looki...

June 2021 Cardiff holds a special place in my heart, it being the city of my student years.  So when I was invited to a wedding there, I decided this was a great opportunity for a reminiscent trip. Back when I was a student, I didn't even like coffee (I do wonder how I survived being a student without!) but I had a feeling that in this day and age, Cardiff would have some pretty great roasters.  I started off at Brodies.  They have a cafe, Bricks and Mortar, on North Road but since it was a lovely sunny morning I headed to their cabin in Gorsedd Gardens to enjoy my flat white in the dappled light of the cooling trees.  There's a surprisingly large selection of sweet treats for such a dinky hut, and they also sell boxes of plant-based Patissiere Thibault Courtoisier's macarons. Next I delved in to the arcades.  I love how arcades always feel like a bit of a secret, and how you never know what exciting shop or interesting boutique you'll find around the next corne...

May 2021 My friend's parents have a flat in Salcombe so I've been lucky enough to spend several lovely weeks there over the years.  I've never found a place there that I really love - it almost feels like places know they will always be packed just from the sheer number of of visitors so they don't need to rely heavily on repeat business. On my most recent trip there, I investigated the then newly opened The Salcombe Yawl, and it did stand out from the crowd.  The friendly staff are chatty and there was a fun vibe - it being Covid times with contactless payments and social distancing, they'd designed an ingenius payment system involving a card machine stuck to a badminton racket which is poked out of the hatch. Whilst the milk in my flat white was sadly a bit Mr Whippyesque, I did like that they use Voyager Coffee beans, roasted just down the road in Buckfasleigh, and French hot chocolate.  Sandwich options are creative, mixing things up from the standard fillings a...

April 2021 Many people told me I was mad planning a weekend in Aberdeen.  "What are you going to do there?!". To me it seemed to have the promise of a cool city with an up and coming food and coffee scene.  And that's just what it is! Impressive, austere granite buildings and suburbs each with their own character.   I set off for the leafy suburbs of the West End, lured by Figment Coffee, who roast beans as well as crafting Aberdeen's best flat white alongside exciting brunch options and cakes.  I particularly enjoyed the summer special Sunshine Brew - orange infused, sparkling cold brew coffee - sunshine in a glass! On the food front, sourdough toast topped with Scottish Crowdie curd cheese, poached pears and rhubarb ketchup was an exciting way to try one of Scotland's most ancient cheeses, whilst  vibrant raspberry and peanut butter overnight oats was everything I wanted after a long run. Find Figment Coffee on Countesswells Road.  They sell their b...

May 2021 Not just your standard village cafe, this Cotswolds hub is owned by a cooperative of more than 650 villagers, and sits alongside a well stocked shop, the result of a successful fundraising campaign. By day, there's an array of baked goods far more elaborate than I was expecting from this tiny cafe - ruby chocolate cruffins, pistachio and rosewater buns and deliciously gooey Black Forest friands, all courtesy of Cheltenham's Baker and Graze.  Breakfast is served with Mark's Cotswold Bakery sourdough; for lunch, colourful salads and fat sandwiches feature alongside more hearty offerings such as Cotswold goat tagine with Israeli couscous, pomegranate, pistachios and harissa yogurt.  New Ground, Oxford's specialist roasters who provide training and employment to ex-offenders, provide the coffee beans, and for dinner, this quaint cafe transforms in to a chic dining venue, creating impressive dishes from seasonal, locally sourced produce. The village itself is rather...

April 2021 During my weekend in Aberdeen, I made an exciting discovery.  A few miles outside of the city, close to Kinellar, is Forest Farm Dairy - an organic dairy surrounded by lush green pastures where their cows roam free.   Not only can you get their delicious non-homogenised milk straight from the source via Scotland's first milk vending machine, you can also get many other delicious products made on the farm.  In the cheese line up, there's Scottish curd cheese and some of Connage Highland Dairy's cheeses, as well as Forest Farm's own haloumi - I'm a big haloumi fan anyway so didn't need much convincing, but this was a whole other level - absolutely gorgeous cooked over a BBQ until the outside caramelises and the inside goes all gooey... Anyway, I digress.   Artisan gelato is the highlight of any trip to Forest Farm.  Made in small batches on the premises, it has zero food miles and flavours change regularly.  The honeycomb is an absolute m...

April 2021 I made a short pit stop in the Strathbungo area of Glasgow on my way north, to suss out the coffee scene.  Unfortunately it was a Monday so many places were closed, although this did make choosing very much easier! First up was Grain and Grind.  I didn't plan on it but the eye-catching blue and white striped awning drew me in.  The flat white was pretty good and there was an array of exciting looking sweet treats - cappuccino macaron? Yes please! Sadly I was saving myself for my next stop so I didn't indulge. Continuing through Queen's Park I came to Cafe Strange Brew.  Using Glasgow roasted Dear Green coffee beans, and with a substantial and varied menu, and a window full of baked goods, choices were difficult!  One thing jumped out at me though as it seemed to combine many of my favourite things - haloumi, chilli oil, poached eggs, sourdough and humous...this sounded like deliciousness on a plate (or in a box it being Covid times).  Other optio...

April 2021 For a town as small as Lerwick, I didn't expect to come across a place as exciting as Island Larder.  Working with sustainable producers who use the highest quality of ingredients, the deli showcases the best of Scottish food and drink, alongside which they make their own artisan fudge, chocolate and ice cream.  The ice cream is definitely one not to miss! Whatever the weather, even if it means having to have a hot drink afterwards to warm up, it's a must try.  Made in the building with 100% Shetland milk and cream, flavours change with the seasons and the maker's mood! I tried the incredible chilli chocolate which was so intensely dark and not at all sickly, with just a hint of chilli to balance the richness.   Even the hot chocolate goes the extra mile with the marshmallows torched to order. If it's something savoury you're after, choose from gourmet fish finger butties with the freshest local haddock in the crispest batter, daily changing soup, or ...

April 2021 Eyam is a sweet little village in the Derbyshire Dales, and Village Green Cafe is it's charming cafe.  Watch the world go by from the tables and chairs scattered on The Square, or read up on the history of the bull ring stone which lay hidden beneath the road for 40 years and now stands outside the cafe. Enjoy excellent flat whites made with Huddersfield roaster Dark Woods beans, huge slabs of towering sponge - the Victoria sponge filled with whipped cream and fresh strawberries is particularly noteworthy, or why not go for a homemade Bakewell tart whilst you're just up the road.  For something more substantial, you can't go wrong with the toasted sandwiches made with bubbly focaccia - there are meaty, veggie and vegan fillings so everyone's covered. Find Village Green Cafe on The Square in Eyam.  Browse the beautiful homewares collection inside and then grab a locally churned ice cream to take on your Peak District walk.

April 2021 Some may say it's ridiculous to plan my entire trip back from Scotland based on the opening days of a coffee window...but that's how I roll!  Having missed out on visiting Hatch during my last trip to Newcastle, I thought it would make the perfect journey break on my way back south.   From a former parking attendants cabin surrounded by Northumbria University, Mark serves up expertly crafted espresso based beverages, having fallen in love with coffee in Melbourne.  Local roasters Colour Coffee, the roastery behind Pink Lane Coffee, provide the beans, and even the Acorn Dairy organic milk is from just down the A1 near Darlington. Find Hatch on the edge of the Ellison Place car park.