An Edible Voyage

September 2021 Having hiked 166km across the Apennine mountains on the Via Degli Dei, I was in dire need of excellent coffee.  Fortunately, two places in Florence came up trumps, both handily in the city centre and with only a short walk between, it was easy to get my caffeine kick!  First up, Coffee Mantra on Via della Mattonaia serves Gearbox coffee, roasted just down the road in Florence.  The flat white was expertly crafted and there’s also a selection of hand brews on offer. Next up, Melaleuca, an Australian owned café and bakery alongside the Arno River, serving up bagels, avocado toast on sourdough and tortillas, cakes, cinnamon buns and great coffee.  I was really looking forward to sampling beans from another small-scale local Florence roaster, D612 Coffee Roasters, and they didn’t disappoint.  The homemade cold brew was refreshing, flavoursome and exactly what I needed on a warm day, deliciously citrusy served with a slice of orange.  As well as...

October 2021 If there's one thing that the Scilly Isles aren't short of, other than incredible views, endless white sand beaches and an abundance of turquoise sea, it's homemade cakes.  St Mary's is dotted with cafes, commandeering beautiful coastal views and hidden along woodland paths, and one could be forgiven for thinking there's a inter-cafe cake competition going on.   Having spent a very strenuous week sampling many of them, I can conclude that Longstone Cafe wins it for me.  Vegan lime and homegrown courgette sits alongside an ingenious banoffee cake - think banoffee pie but with a banana bread base, and the absolute star of the show, the simple but absolutely perfect Victoria Sponge - an enormous wedge of the lightest, fluffiest sponge, filled with strawberry jam and oozing a generous layer of whipped cream. Redruth roasted Cornish Coffee beans are used in the espresso based beverages, with milk steamed well to make a delicious flat white.  In the drink...

August 2021 Whilst out for dinner with a friend, I casually mentioned my upcoming trip to Moldova and she was straight on to her coffee app to inform me that there are precisely two speciality coffee shops in Chisinau.  So, obviously, I had to visit both! First up was YOCO Coffee And Drinks.  Along the M3, the main road running south out of the city, around 4 miles from the city centre, it's not the most convenient place to get to, but I decided to combine it with my morning run (not my most scenic...), much to the bemusement of all the locals who were probably wondering why on earth I was trying to jog down pavements which are consistently more hole than paving.  Once inside though, it's the complete opposite of the Chisinau traffic chaos outside, cool and calm with simple yet sophisticated decor.  The flat white was exceptional and they make their own cold brew. Next up was the much more accessible Pasio.  The outside looked a bit like a chain coffee shop and ...

June 2021 A perfect flat white in Belfast's city centre, with the added bonus that it's made with beans roasted in the city by Root and Branch.  Whilst you're there, I challenge you not to be tempted by the elaborate doughnuts - rhubarb and custard meringue pie, biscoff, the seasonal special creme brulee... Find Oh Donuts and Coffee on Upper Arthur Street, close to the City Hall.  They also sell Root and Branch beans as well as some guest specials. Napoleon Coffee on Ormeau Avenue also do great coffee as well as unusual iced drinks - passionfruit and lime iced tea sounds like the ultimate refreshment, and a couple of sandwiches.  I can highly recommend the sticky sesame cauliflower and crunchy purple cabbage flat bread.

April 2021 Many people told me I was mad planning a weekend in Aberdeen.  "What are you going to do there?!". To me it seemed to have the promise of a cool city with an up and coming food and coffee scene.  And that's just what it is! Impressive, austere granite buildings and suburbs each with their own character.   I set off for the leafy suburbs of the West End, lured by Figment Coffee, who roast beans as well as crafting Aberdeen's best flat white alongside exciting brunch options and cakes.  I particularly enjoyed the summer special Sunshine Brew - orange infused, sparkling cold brew coffee - sunshine in a glass! On the food front, sourdough toast topped with Scottish Crowdie curd cheese, poached pears and rhubarb ketchup was an exciting way to try one of Scotland's most ancient cheeses, whilst  vibrant raspberry and peanut butter overnight oats was everything I wanted after a long run. Find Figment Coffee on Countesswells Road.  They sell their b...

April 2021 I made a short pit stop in the Strathbungo area of Glasgow on my way north, to suss out the coffee scene.  Unfortunately it was a Monday so many places were closed, although this did make choosing very much easier! First up was Grain and Grind.  I didn't plan on it but the eye-catching blue and white striped awning drew me in.  The flat white was pretty good and there was an array of exciting looking sweet treats - cappuccino macaron? Yes please! Sadly I was saving myself for my next stop so I didn't indulge. Continuing through Queen's Park I came to Cafe Strange Brew.  Using Glasgow roasted Dear Green coffee beans, and with a substantial and varied menu, and a window full of baked goods, choices were difficult!  One thing jumped out at me though as it seemed to combine many of my favourite things - haloumi, chilli oil, poached eggs, sourdough and humous...this sounded like deliciousness on a plate (or in a box it being Covid times).  Other optio...

April 2021 Eyam is a sweet little village in the Derbyshire Dales, and Village Green Cafe is it's charming cafe.  Watch the world go by from the tables and chairs scattered on The Square, or read up on the history of the bull ring stone which lay hidden beneath the road for 40 years and now stands outside the cafe. Enjoy excellent flat whites made with Huddersfield roaster Dark Woods beans, huge slabs of towering sponge - the Victoria sponge filled with whipped cream and fresh strawberries is particularly noteworthy, or why not go for a homemade Bakewell tart whilst you're just up the road.  For something more substantial, you can't go wrong with the toasted sandwiches made with bubbly focaccia - there are meaty, veggie and vegan fillings so everyone's covered. Find Village Green Cafe on The Square in Eyam.  Browse the beautiful homewares collection inside and then grab a locally churned ice cream to take on your Peak District walk.

April 2021 Some may say it's ridiculous to plan my entire trip back from Scotland based on the opening days of a coffee window...but that's how I roll!  Having missed out on visiting Hatch during my last trip to Newcastle, I thought it would make the perfect journey break on my way back south.   From a former parking attendants cabin surrounded by Northumbria University, Mark serves up expertly crafted espresso based beverages, having fallen in love with coffee in Melbourne.  Local roasters Colour Coffee, the roastery behind Pink Lane Coffee, provide the beans, and even the Acorn Dairy organic milk is from just down the A1 near Darlington. Find Hatch on the edge of the Ellison Place car park.

April 2021 A friend who recently moved to Bollington has excitedly been telling me about No 74 Delicatessen whenever she embarks on a trip for treats (which seems to be at ever decreasing intervals during lockdown!), so it was inevitable that during my post-lockdown visit to the Peak District, No 74 would be on the agenda.   This is one of those places that's excellent at everything - milk is expertly steamed for the espresso based coffee; interesting sandwiches are fresh, flavoursome and served on chunky rolls advertised as made from flour, water, salt and nothing else; cakes are exquisite - towering layers of airy sponge sit alongside zesty lemon squares and Malteaser tiffin; and Happy Belly supply delicious sweet potato and feta scotch eggs with soft, golden yolks. Turn up with several bags! No 74 is the kind of place where you go in for a coffee and come out with all manner of local produce.  Beers from Manchester micro-breweries, black garlic ketchup, bean to bar cho...

November 2020 My first visit to Newcastle upon Tyne meant the excitement of researching the bakery, coffee and general food scene.  Small batch microbakeries with exceptional hand crafted baked goods are the places of my dreams, so Northern Rye was top of my list, and I planned my journey to arrive in Newcastle at dawn on a Saturday so I could be first in line! I underestimated the popularity of this place though - it seems since opening on the river bank in Byker in June 2020, Northern Rye has gained a dedicated fan base.  Following the Ouseburn through Newcastle's creative quarter with its old warehouses sympathetically refurbished in to contemporary housing and office space, I could see the queue long before I could see Northern Rye!  The riverside spot made for a scenic location for some weekend people watching and the wait was more than worth it.  I was greeted with a handsome display of coconut and blackcurrant croissants, ginger and fennel buns, deliciously me...

November 2020 Stroll around Portree, the capital of Skye, and enjoy the gentle lapping of the Loch against the row of picturesque pastel houses perched on the water's edge.  Then head to Birch Cafe for one of the best coffees on the island - expert extraction of locally roasted Skye Coffee Roasters beans alongside perfectly steam milk, served in a beautiful, locally made ceramics.  Sit at the counter in the window and watch the world go by whilst contemplating the eye catching, rock music inspired coasters. There is also a selection of homemade cakes and bakes (I had to get 2 because I couldn't decide!), and sandwiches and toasties made with Skye Bakehouse sourdough. Find Birch Cafe on Bayfield Road.

November 2020 Even in the rugged landscapes of the Isle of Skye it's good to find a great coffee to fuel days of exploring picturesque landscapes and medieval castles, and Caora Dhubh is just that place.  Translating to Black Sheep in Scottish Gaelic, this wooden shack, perched on the edge of Loch Harport, serves excellent espresso based coffee from Artisan Coffee Roasters in Edinburgh, alongside locally made chocolate, and Eteaket tea from Edinburgh.   Find it opposite the Tallisker distillery and enjoy a cup sitting on the water's edge, gazing out over the loch.  They also have a selection of baked treats.

November 2020 From a warehouse on the outskirts of Aberfeldy, a cool little town on the bank of the River Tay, wafts the delicious aroma of roasting coffee.  Glen Lyon sources single origin beans from around the world and roasts them in small batches to showcase their flavour and produce some outstanding coffee.  The coffee on offer frequently changes, staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and milk is steamed to perfection. The name stems from their original location in Glen Lyon.  However winters spent digging delivery trucks out of snow drove them to relocate to somewhere a little more accessible! Find Glen Lyon Coffee Roasters in the Aberfeldy Business Park, or just follow your nose!  

November 2020 Perched on the water's edge, looking out over the Cromarty Firth is a small shack serving coffee locally roasted by Vandyke Bros, as well edible treats made in the town - I highly recommend the Ginger Crunch - a gingery, fudgy, crunchy square of deliciousness.  Exceptional flat white and friendly service from owner Laura.  Sit out by the ferry slipway with the wind in your hair as you gaze out across Ross-shire.

January 2021 Having living in Melbourne for several years, the coffee bar was set high and I became a bit of a coffee snob.  This definitely has it's disadvantages as it makes finding a coffee that I really enjoy tricky.  I had sort of given up on finding one in Banbury, satisfying my cravings on visits to Oxford, London or in the nearby village of Great Tew at Quince and Clover (you can read all about that in a separate post).  One day I was cycling to the swimming pool early in the morning when I passed a coffee cart.  It was still closed at that time but I stored it in my 'to be tried at some point' part of my brain (although I must admit, I didn't have particularly high expectations) and then promptly forgot about it.  A few weeks later, an article popped up on my phone about it.  Reading that Harriet had worked as a barista in London for 12 years got me excited - it seemed she could be the one to make me a great flat white! From her small cart, The Bar...

December 2020 Carmarthen has quite a few cafes ready to satisfy you if you aren’t too bothered how you get your caffeine fix.   However, for the coffee snobs amongst us, it has to be Finn’s Coffee Shop.   Hidden away down an alleyway, this small but perfectly formed café has expertly crafted, silky but robust flat whites alongside a tantalising display of the most divine Edan Ash chocolates.   Seriously, these chocolates, crafted just south of Carmarthen in Kidwelly, are exquisite.   The smoothest ganache is combined with exotic flavours which hold their own without overpowering the flavour profile of the high quality cacao, and enrobed in a crisp chocolate shell which shatters as you bite in to it.   Seasonal cinnamon toast, and warming rum and ginger were my favourites. Upstairs is a small, industrially decorated seating area where you can enjoy coffee and chocolates alongside homemade vegan banana bread and toasties.   There is a also a small selecti...

December 2020 For the freshest bread in Pembrokeshire, get yourself down to Crwst.   Often still warm from the oven, the sourdough has a lovely soft texture and a full flavour, making it impossible not to break chunks off and eat it plain on the way home.   The flat white made with the local Bay Coffee Roasters beans is very good, and there is an exciting selection of doughnuts.   Not usually a huge fan of caramel, the salted caramel doughnut deserves a mention for its fluffy texture, silky mousse that bursts out as you bite it, and the little crunch from popcorn adorning the top – a lovely contrast of textures. Find it on Priory Street in Cardigan.   They also serve brunch which I think would definitely be worth a try, and a selection of deli produce – Bay Coffee Roasters beans, creamy Perl Wen from Caws Cenarth Cheese, and the delicious Gethins cider from Maenclochog, amongst other things.

September 2020 Tucked on a corner, opposite the green, in the village of Maenclochog is the unassuming Caffi’r Sgwar Adorned with plastic table cloths and packed with long standing locals, it wasn’t a place I naturally gravitated to.  However a good friend from the next village mentioned in passing that it’s a local institution, so I was immediately sold! If I’m honest, my expectations for a flat white were fairly low, but it was up there with some of the best I’ve had.  I was also expecting a fairly small range of cakes, given the size of the café, and village as a whole, so I was pleasantly taken aback to find a counter bursting with an assortment of homemade brownies (three different flavours as well as gluten free), seasonal cakes, scones, quiches and sausage rolls.  The super fudgey brownies with the slight crunch on top are absolutely divine, and not usually a fan of cold sausage rolls, the delicious meaty, cheesy and slightly sweet taste of the generously stuffed p...

June 2020 Bakey and chocolaterie, can you get a better combination?!  Nestled in amongst the historical buildings of the picturesque, coastal village of Orford in Suffolk is Pump Street Bakery.  The counter bursts with both sourdough and yeasted bread, baguettes, baked goods and pastries, as well as their own made chocolate.   I arrived at opening time to find there was already a long queue and I quickly found out why.  Having devoured the Bear Claw - flaky, perfectly laminated pastry filled with gooey, nutty almond paste, and a great flat white, I queued up for round 2! The highlight was the pillowy doughnut filled with sweet but refreshing rhubarb jam.  It really was like eating the most delicious cloud. The chocolate selection is as equally exciting, with beans sourced from all over the world.  My all time favourite bar is the 72% Solomon Islands which really tastes of baked banana.  I'm also very excited to try th...

June 2020 On Iffley Road there sits an unassuming cafe; one that I had never noticed.  I searched it out after a friend mentioned the delicious food, excellent coffee, and lovely light, airy setting with a garden out the back.  It's now my favourite breakfast in Oxford.  A short menu means that every dish is executed to an exceptional standard.  I love the concept of Eton mess pancakes with crunchy meringue shards and mint syrup, and sourdough French toast with elderflower custard and roasted gooseberries sounds heavenly.   My favourite dish so far is the Full Silvie.  Not usually a huge fan of the Full English, I was a little sceptical, but it turned out to be one of my all time best breakfasts.  Sausage meat wrapped in bacon, and cheddar and greens toasted loaf both looked heavy going but were actually deliciously light, and the fennel seed roasted tomatoes and mushrooms added a whole new flavour dimension.  I believe it's the sign ...