An Edible Voyage

January 2020 Patagonia. Home of jagged mountain peaks, mirror lakes, ice fields, and miles and miles of steppe under huge, ever-changing skies. El Calafate The main activity in El Calafate is a trip to see the Perito Moreno glacier.  I was a little unsure whether to go as I feared it may be a tiny, tourist packed boardwalk with a glacier in the distance and a lot of standing around.  I'm so glad I went as it was incredible, exceeding my expectations by far.  Several kms of walkway at varying heights that get close to the glacier, and a beach with rocks, drift wood and miniature icebergs to explore meant a fairly active day.  As one of the few advancing glaciers in the world,  the anticipation builds as the afternoon sun beats down on the ice and you can hear the ice splitting and shifting.  Then with a crack as loud as thunder, a huge chunk crashes in to the lake.  It's an impressive sight and a thrilling experience.  El Chalten The wea...

And when you’re in need of some vegetables (a rare find in Argentina!)… Head to Viva La Pepa in El Calafate.    Specialising in crepes and with a great ethos behind them of wanting to create a place for people to be able to take a pause, they have every sweet and savoury crepe filling imaginable, from those stuffed with lamb, to aubergine and spinach, to trout with leek in lemon sauce, to stewed apples with calafate icecream.    And when I say stuffed, I mean stuffed.    Like their length of the table sandwiches on home-made bread, they are filled to bursting which was perfect when I was in need of a vegetable hit after weeks of meat.    With its flower filled garden, chirpy music and colourful wooden chairs, it makes you feel happy when you walk in, and just a couple of metres from the main street, it’s a tranquil haven from the hustle and bustle.    The staff are genuinely friendly, every table receives complimentary carrot stic...

January 2020 This sweet treat says it all about the nation’s love for dulce de leche.    Traditionally two crumbly, softer than shortbread biscuits sandwiched with a thick smear of dulce de leche, there are countless variations.    From white, dark or milk chocolate enrobed classics, to chocolate biscuits forming the sandwich, to biscuits wrapped around calafate jam, to coconut dusted.    Bite sized to side plate sized, I even saw a triple alfajores comprising 3 biscuits and 2 layers of dulce de leche – a sweet club sandwich.   Find them everywhere - in cafes, panaderias, street stalls and artisan shops.    My favourite was a calafate jam filled, white chocolate enrobed alfajores from Chaltenos in El Chalten.    Made on the premises, the chocolate coating gave a satisfying crunch to an otherwise soft snack, the jam was fruity and flavourful, the biscuit wasn’t powdery like others I’ve tried, and it was the perfect size to e...

January 2020 Patagonia km 24.7 v La Zhorra beer Patagonia km 24.7 is brewed with Patagonian hops in Buenos Aires, and named after the place where their microbrewery in San Carolos de Bariloche is situated along route 77.    I found it a bit wishy-washy, with a watery lager taste.    With several craft offerings, I had high hopes for the La Zhorra microbrewery in El Calafate (there’s also a tap room in El Chalten).    I opted for the honey beer which had lovely honey notes without being overly sweet, but unfortunately had a metallic after taste.    I’d definitely be keen to try their other beers though.

January 2020 El Calafate is named after this Patagonian berry, said to be similar to a blueberry.  I actually found this jam to have an unsatisfyingly smooth texture and tasted more like a poor quality strawberry jam.    Maybe the tantalising purple ice cream better showcases this native fruit, although I didn’t try it. Find both the jam and ice cream in many shops lining the main streets of El Calafate and El Chalten.   

January 2020 Patagonia Chocolate Chocolate made in El Calafate is a bit like a giant flake, with white, milk and dark chocolate versions.    The flavour of the milk chocolate was nothing special, but I loved the texture and chunkiness which was very satisfying to bite in to.   Find it at the several souvenir shops and ice cream parlours on the main street in El Calafate.

January 2020 A must have on any trip to Patagonia.    But beware, even lamb for one is an enormous portion and a meal in itself, even without any sides.    Impressive to see, several lamb carcasses are tied to crosses over a pit of fire.    Different cuts, ribs and all, then served at the table over a pot of glowing embers.    Tasty and tender but incredibly rich – I’ve never experienced such rich lamb before.    For a change from Malbec, try it with a glass of Patagonian Pinot Noir at La Tablita in El Calafate. Lima (butter) beans A great little bar snack, particularly when marinated in oil and (chilli peppers).

January 2020 I was surprised to find homemade pasta and gnocchi served in many restaurants, but as with ice cream, the Italians also brought to Argentina their pasta expertise.    Spoilt for choice, I decided to combine two local specialities – homemade ravioli and Patagonian lamb.    This was one of the tastiest dishes I have ever tried.    Presented in a hot stone bowl on a wooden board, tender chunks of lamb were enrobed in thick pasta which had a good bite to it, and served in a rich and silky stock.    Cubes of bacon gave it a slight saltiness and the mushrooms, earthiness.    Twigs of rosemary and a spoonful of cream rounded off this meathy, earthy dish which managed to be both rich and fresh at the same time.   Try it at Mako in El Calafate, where you are given metre long bread sticks for the table.   

January 2020 You’ll find a homemade flan on the dessert menu of many restaurants.    Very similar to a crème caramel, with a set custard base, topped with a thin layer of caramel.    My favourite was a deconstructed flan.    A glass of creamy, drippy, slightly eggy and sweet like a good custard deliciousness, topped with light as air dulce de leche mousse for that classic flavour, and a hidden hit of thick, super molassesy caramel at the bottom, so thin it complemented perfectly and wasn’t at all overpowering.    It was decorated with caramelised almonds, giving a fabulous contrasting texture, and edible flowers for a little colour amongst all that caramel. Where to find it? Also at Mako in El Calafate.