An Edible Voyage

September 2021 Having hiked 166km across the Apennine mountains on the Via Degli Dei, I was in dire need of excellent coffee.  Fortunately, two places in Florence came up trumps, both handily in the city centre and with only a short walk between, it was easy to get my caffeine kick!  First up, Coffee Mantra on Via della Mattonaia serves Gearbox coffee, roasted just down the road in Florence.  The flat white was expertly crafted and there’s also a selection of hand brews on offer. Next up, Melaleuca, an Australian owned café and bakery alongside the Arno River, serving up bagels, avocado toast on sourdough and tortillas, cakes, cinnamon buns and great coffee.  I was really looking forward to sampling beans from another small-scale local Florence roaster, D612 Coffee Roasters, and they didn’t disappoint.  The homemade cold brew was refreshing, flavoursome and exactly what I needed on a warm day, deliciously citrusy served with a slice of orange.  As well as...

October 2021 If there's one thing that the Scilly Isles aren't short of, other than incredible views, endless white sand beaches and an abundance of turquoise sea, it's homemade cakes.  St Mary's is dotted with cafes, commandeering beautiful coastal views and hidden along woodland paths, and one could be forgiven for thinking there's a inter-cafe cake competition going on.   Having spent a very strenuous week sampling many of them, I can conclude that Longstone Cafe wins it for me.  Vegan lime and homegrown courgette sits alongside an ingenious banoffee cake - think banoffee pie but with a banana bread base, and the absolute star of the show, the simple but absolutely perfect Victoria Sponge - an enormous wedge of the lightest, fluffiest sponge, filled with strawberry jam and oozing a generous layer of whipped cream. Redruth roasted Cornish Coffee beans are used in the espresso based beverages, with milk steamed well to make a delicious flat white.  In the drink...

August 2021 Whilst out for dinner with a friend, I casually mentioned my upcoming trip to Moldova and she was straight on to her coffee app to inform me that there are precisely two speciality coffee shops in Chisinau.  So, obviously, I had to visit both! First up was YOCO Coffee And Drinks.  Along the M3, the main road running south out of the city, around 4 miles from the city centre, it's not the most convenient place to get to, but I decided to combine it with my morning run (not my most scenic...), much to the bemusement of all the locals who were probably wondering why on earth I was trying to jog down pavements which are consistently more hole than paving.  Once inside though, it's the complete opposite of the Chisinau traffic chaos outside, cool and calm with simple yet sophisticated decor.  The flat white was exceptional and they make their own cold brew. Next up was the much more accessible Pasio.  The outside looked a bit like a chain coffee shop and ...

July 2021 Cycling along the stunning, if hilly(!), coastal road from Ballycastle to Giant's Causeway, distracted by the arc of white sand against the sparkling turquoise sea that is White Park Bay, I almost didn't spot Bothy.  But something about the cosiness of the word must have registered with my brain so I stopped to investigate.  From the name, I was expecting small and eclectic.  Bothy is surprisingly large, although definitely has the eclectic factor, with a conservatory as well as a covered outdoors, complete with wood fired pizza oven. Taking inspiration from mountain bothies, they aim to recreate the comfort of "a roof over our heads; a shelter from the weather; a place to rest, eat and warm up; a haven". They want people to be able to " wander in, settle back and unwind. Curl up and read a book, or just enjoy the solitude". I found it a little busy for that - it's definitely a very popular pit stop. They roast their own coffee (bags of bea...

July 2021 Lost and Found Cafe is verging on perfection.  A short stroll along the beautiful north coast of Northern Ireland, a few minutes away from the hubbub of Portstewart Strand, nestles this friendly brew bar and eatery.   Enjoy expertly crafted espresso based coffee and innovative brunch at the stools in front of the enormous window overlooking the sea.  Salty feta, nutty tahini and the sweetness of honey, an inspired and utterly delicious toastie that I will definitely be recreating at home.    Don't leave without choosing one of their exciting homemade sweet treats (and maybe one to take home too!).  Bigger than your head cookie sandwiches are enough for several sittings, and cakes change with the seasons. Find Lost and Found Cafe on Berne Road, just east of Portstewart Strand.

May 2021 Walking through the residential streets of Cardiff's Roath, spotting the haunts of my student days, the last thing I expected to come across was an old garage, mid-terrace, housing a sourdough bakery.  Despite the small shop front, the bakery has a cavernous interior, plenty of space for all manner of sourdough loaves, including ones made with quinoa, and yesterday's bread going cheap.   In the sweet treats line up, 6 flavours of doughnut sit alongside choc chip pretzel cookies, and their signature Queens - no less than 27 layers of melt in the mouth, flaky pastry, similar to a round, sugar-dusted croissant, filled with the flavour of the month which changes with the seasons.  Being the last day of the month, I just managed to get my hands on May's offering - the PBJ Queen.  The zingiest raspberry jam marbled with peanut butter diplomat cream - a genius invention I have to say, oozing with every bite from the soft, sugary Queen.  This really was th...

July 2021 I'm totally onboard with the raw cake craze.  Not only do I feel better being full of nutrients rather than sugar, but I actually prefer them - more flavour, less sickly, and a variety of textures.  It's a win-win in my book.  That's why if I lived in Liverpool, it would be dangerous.  The Nakery is all my dreams come true, a big kid in a (raw) sweet shop. There are so many goodies to choose between - cheesecakes, cake jars, brownies, blondies, cookie dough and chocolate bars - raspberry shortbread, salted caramel... and all vegan and refined sugar free.  I really couldn't choose so I told myself it's not every day that I'm in Liverpool and stocked up! The strawberry cheesecake was delicious - creamy and fruity but light and fresh.  They also have some very exciting fruit and veg combos in their smoothies and shakes - PBJ smoothie with raspberries and peanut butter? Yes please! And the All The Greens smoothie felt like it contained a week's worth ...

May 2021 Not just your standard village cafe, this Cotswolds hub is owned by a cooperative of more than 650 villagers, and sits alongside a well stocked shop, the result of a successful fundraising campaign. By day, there's an array of baked goods far more elaborate than I was expecting from this tiny cafe - ruby chocolate cruffins, pistachio and rosewater buns and deliciously gooey Black Forest friands, all courtesy of Cheltenham's Baker and Graze.  Breakfast is served with Mark's Cotswold Bakery sourdough; for lunch, colourful salads and fat sandwiches feature alongside more hearty offerings such as Cotswold goat tagine with Israeli couscous, pomegranate, pistachios and harissa yogurt.  New Ground, Oxford's specialist roasters who provide training and employment to ex-offenders, provide the coffee beans, and for dinner, this quaint cafe transforms in to a chic dining venue, creating impressive dishes from seasonal, locally sourced produce. The village itself is rather...

April 2021 I made a short pit stop in the Strathbungo area of Glasgow on my way north, to suss out the coffee scene.  Unfortunately it was a Monday so many places were closed, although this did make choosing very much easier! First up was Grain and Grind.  I didn't plan on it but the eye-catching blue and white striped awning drew me in.  The flat white was pretty good and there was an array of exciting looking sweet treats - cappuccino macaron? Yes please! Sadly I was saving myself for my next stop so I didn't indulge. Continuing through Queen's Park I came to Cafe Strange Brew.  Using Glasgow roasted Dear Green coffee beans, and with a substantial and varied menu, and a window full of baked goods, choices were difficult!  One thing jumped out at me though as it seemed to combine many of my favourite things - haloumi, chilli oil, poached eggs, sourdough and humous...this sounded like deliciousness on a plate (or in a box it being Covid times).  Other optio...

April 2021 For a town as small as Lerwick, I didn't expect to come across a place as exciting as Island Larder.  Working with sustainable producers who use the highest quality of ingredients, the deli showcases the best of Scottish food and drink, alongside which they make their own artisan fudge, chocolate and ice cream.  The ice cream is definitely one not to miss! Whatever the weather, even if it means having to have a hot drink afterwards to warm up, it's a must try.  Made in the building with 100% Shetland milk and cream, flavours change with the seasons and the maker's mood! I tried the incredible chilli chocolate which was so intensely dark and not at all sickly, with just a hint of chilli to balance the richness.   Even the hot chocolate goes the extra mile with the marshmallows torched to order. If it's something savoury you're after, choose from gourmet fish finger butties with the freshest local haddock in the crispest batter, daily changing soup, or ...

April 2021 What more could one hope to come across on a blustery, hilly cycle around Shetland Mainland than a cake fridge! Yes, that's right, a fridge full of home baked cup cakes, mint aero tiffin, original tiffin, caramel tiffin... as well as hand knitted socks, Whalsay made jams (lime and Shetland Reel gin is particularly moorish) and Orkney fudge.  Open 24/7 on an honesty basis, you can satisfy sweet cravings at any time of day or night. Grab your goodies and head a couple of 100m east along the road to enjoy the view of the shimmering blue grey sea and lush green hills from the picnic benches, or, if you're there at a conventional time, why not venture in to the tea room for an even wider selection of baked goods and hot drinks.  Find The Original Cake Fridge on the road from Aith, just before East Burrafirth.

April 2021 I fell in love with Lerwick - a labyrinth of narrow cobbled lanes, where you can reach out and touch both sides simultaneously, rise steeply from the harbour, ripe for exploring; quaint shops - the dingy, musty Wine Shop is a particularly atmospheric experience; the cluster of colourful fishing boats bobbing on the silver blue of the shimmering harbour; the unexpected park hidden between buildings, perfect to pause and savour, sample edible goodies purchased from the water side shops, or even read a book from the post box library. To refuel, Peerie Cafe is a great option.  Meaning 'tiny' in Scottish, one would assume it lived up to it's name based on the small, unassuming doorway.  Inside though is a spacious and convivial seating area across two floors, and a bar filled with homemade cakes, cheesecakes and scones.  Peerie automatically wins several points from me as everything is made in house by James - the daily changing soup is great for warming up, particu...

April 2021 Eyam is a sweet little village in the Derbyshire Dales, and Village Green Cafe is it's charming cafe.  Watch the world go by from the tables and chairs scattered on The Square, or read up on the history of the bull ring stone which lay hidden beneath the road for 40 years and now stands outside the cafe. Enjoy excellent flat whites made with Huddersfield roaster Dark Woods beans, huge slabs of towering sponge - the Victoria sponge filled with whipped cream and fresh strawberries is particularly noteworthy, or why not go for a homemade Bakewell tart whilst you're just up the road.  For something more substantial, you can't go wrong with the toasted sandwiches made with bubbly focaccia - there are meaty, veggie and vegan fillings so everyone's covered. Find Village Green Cafe on The Square in Eyam.  Browse the beautiful homewares collection inside and then grab a locally churned ice cream to take on your Peak District walk.

April 2021 A friend who recently moved to Bollington has excitedly been telling me about No 74 Delicatessen whenever she embarks on a trip for treats (which seems to be at ever decreasing intervals during lockdown!), so it was inevitable that during my post-lockdown visit to the Peak District, No 74 would be on the agenda.   This is one of those places that's excellent at everything - milk is expertly steamed for the espresso based coffee; interesting sandwiches are fresh, flavoursome and served on chunky rolls advertised as made from flour, water, salt and nothing else; cakes are exquisite - towering layers of airy sponge sit alongside zesty lemon squares and Malteaser tiffin; and Happy Belly supply delicious sweet potato and feta scotch eggs with soft, golden yolks. Turn up with several bags! No 74 is the kind of place where you go in for a coffee and come out with all manner of local produce.  Beers from Manchester micro-breweries, black garlic ketchup, bean to bar cho...

April 2021 I can't remember how on earth I originally came across this place, but I'm so glad that I did.  A real hidden gem, unassumingly tucked away in a residential street behind Stoke Newington High Street.  With it's conservative shop front it would be easy to miss, but whatever you do, don't miss it!  The compact inside has a buzzy neighbourhood vibe, and outside is a lovely, sheltered courtyard. Has Bean coffee is expertly crafted, whether as a pour over or espresso based beverage, and they've taken milk alternatives up a notch with their own home made almond milk. The food is always exceptional - one of those places where you know that whatever you choose will be well executed.  Unusual combinations of bang in season produce means the menu is never dull, whilst keeping things simple enough to really showcase the flavours of quality produce. The French toast is my go to option - thick slices of chewy, tangy Little Bread Pedlar sourdough, usually served with s...

March 2021 Bakergirl. “If you know, you know” they say, and I think this perfectly sums up what has become quite the Oxfordshire institution.   Starting life as a farmshop café at Wykham Park Farm, and baking flavoursome sourdough loaves, cheese and marmite scrolls, and all manner of cakes, pastries and buns, they appeared in the old thatched post office in the quintessential Cotswold village of Great Tew following a brief hiatus.   At both venues, no matter the time or day, queues of locals as well as those who’d travelled from a afar for the legendary cinnamon buns, snaked out of the door and around the farm/ village green. Deciding to switch things up so as being able to maintain their baking dream whilst minimising the unsociable baker’s hours, they moved fully to their bakehouse in Wroxton to focus on pop-ups.   Sourdough pizza Saturdays, with home made salted caramel gelato and ‘sides’ of loaves of sourdough, milk loaves or whatever else takes their baking fancy...

November 2020 Stroll around Portree, the capital of Skye, and enjoy the gentle lapping of the Loch against the row of picturesque pastel houses perched on the water's edge.  Then head to Birch Cafe for one of the best coffees on the island - expert extraction of locally roasted Skye Coffee Roasters beans alongside perfectly steam milk, served in a beautiful, locally made ceramics.  Sit at the counter in the window and watch the world go by whilst contemplating the eye catching, rock music inspired coasters. There is also a selection of homemade cakes and bakes (I had to get 2 because I couldn't decide!), and sandwiches and toasties made with Skye Bakehouse sourdough. Find Birch Cafe on Bayfield Road.

November 2020 A cheese pantry was not what I expected to find down a track off the road between Inverness airport and the city, but a welcome find it was indeed.  Entering a small cafe and delicatessen selling all manner of crackers, oat cakes and chutneys, as well as cheese toasties, cakes and coffee, I had a fantastic view of the cheese production through the glass wall.  Then it got better - hidden in the corner of the deli is a door, through which I found myself in the most incredible cheese 'cave'.  Walls and walls of cheese, both locally made and from further afield, a real cheese lover's delight!  Some of the cheeses are made on the farm, such as the 12-15 month matured Connage Cheddar, and the Connage Gouda - a deliciously rich and creamy cheese with a flavour profile unlike Dutch Gouda due to differences in the grazing land.  Connage Farm also have a smokery.  Having never heard of a smoked brie before, I had to try it.  Firmer than traditiona...

November 2020 Arriving in Torridon on an atmospheric grey day, I was determined to get out on my bike and cycle up to the Bealach na Gaoithe view point despite the impending drizzle.  Just before the top, the drizzle started and I arrived back at the youth hostel soggy. cold and unable to check in for several hours.  I remembered that just a few metres up the road I'd seen a colourful little sign for a cafe but hadn't thought much of it.  I decided that, if nothing else, there would likely be a pot of tea and somewhere warm and dry to thaw out for a while. And I was right! Nestled in to one end of the community hall was the popular and inviting Wee Whistle Stop cafe with a wall of windows overlooking the loch (or low cloud in my case), with an impressive selection of homemade cakes and scones, and a whole tea menu! The cakes are the towering but oh so light and fluffy kind that you wish you could make, and there's a selection of light meals too.  Find it at the Loch ...

December 2020 There are plenty of cafes in Carmarthen but sometimes you want something a little bit different, a little bit less run of the mill, a little bit special.  Look no further than Karm'en Kafe.  On a chilly, winter morning, I was in need of some brunch.  Something warm and comforting but tasty and fresh too.  I stumbled across Karm'en Kafe and was greeted by the smell of freshly baking bread and an appealing display of homemade cakes, brownies and mince pies.  I was after something savoury so asked about the sandwiches and was told to come back in 30 minutes because the bread wasn't yet out of the oven.  That's my kind of place - bread so fresh it was still being baked!  After a short walk around the town centre I returned, ordered a Reuben, and was presented with a long bread, longer than my plate, with a deliciously crispy crust, loaded with cheese, pastrami and a mountain of sauerkraut.  Not your classic sandwich but seriously tasty....