An Edible Voyage

September 2021 Having hiked 166km across the Apennine mountains on the Via Degli Dei, I was in dire need of excellent coffee.  Fortunately, two places in Florence came up trumps, both handily in the city centre and with only a short walk between, it was easy to get my caffeine kick!  First up, Coffee Mantra on Via della Mattonaia serves Gearbox coffee, roasted just down the road in Florence.  The flat white was expertly crafted and there’s also a selection of hand brews on offer. Next up, Melaleuca, an Australian owned café and bakery alongside the Arno River, serving up bagels, avocado toast on sourdough and tortillas, cakes, cinnamon buns and great coffee.  I was really looking forward to sampling beans from another small-scale local Florence roaster, D612 Coffee Roasters, and they didn’t disappoint.  The homemade cold brew was refreshing, flavoursome and exactly what I needed on a warm day, deliciously citrusy served with a slice of orange.  As well as...

August 2021 Pedro Ximenez. The taste of the sweetest, molten raisins. A perfect pairing for roasted stone fruit and chocolate.  Combine that with French toast made from chewy, tangy sourdough, and what ensues is the most indulgent brunch, made for a leisurely weekend with a perfect cup of coffee and a good magazine. For this creation, I simply roasted apricots with a little Pedro Ximenez and piled them on to French toast with some vegan chocolate ice cream I had made previously from soaked cashews blended with coconut milk and melted chocolate, chopped almonds and cocoa nibs. It had crunch, it had fruitiness, it had creaminess, and that kick of Pedro Ximenez.  One seriously stylish brunch. 

May 2021 Walking through the residential streets of Cardiff's Roath, spotting the haunts of my student days, the last thing I expected to come across was an old garage, mid-terrace, housing a sourdough bakery.  Despite the small shop front, the bakery has a cavernous interior, plenty of space for all manner of sourdough loaves, including ones made with quinoa, and yesterday's bread going cheap.   In the sweet treats line up, 6 flavours of doughnut sit alongside choc chip pretzel cookies, and their signature Queens - no less than 27 layers of melt in the mouth, flaky pastry, similar to a round, sugar-dusted croissant, filled with the flavour of the month which changes with the seasons.  Being the last day of the month, I just managed to get my hands on May's offering - the PBJ Queen.  The zingiest raspberry jam marbled with peanut butter diplomat cream - a genius invention I have to say, oozing with every bite from the soft, sugary Queen.  This really was th...

June 2021 Rarely do I go anywhere without my bike.  People say I'm mad but I relish the flexibility to get off the beaten track (literally!), the extra time to savour the views as I plod my way up a hill or fly along country lanes, the opportunity to be at one with my surroundings.  If I didn't, I never would have come across Broughgammon Farm - a teeny tiny hedgerow sign spotted as I battled a blustery wind, committed to memory for further investigation. Having established the opening days (limited to Friday - Sunday at the time of writing), I decided to pop in on my way back to Belfast, to soften the blow of having to leave my beautiful campsite (which I'd had all to myself for the week). Some old-fashioned sign-following (Google Maps was a bit off) took me down a long and windy track, on and on it went, increasing the anticipation, but also having me wondering if I'd taken a wrong turn.  But a wrong turn I had not taken and soon I popped out in the farm.  The farm...

June 2021 I often wonder if I would have found any of the great foodie havens I write about if it wasn't for Instagram.  And this is definitely one of them. When I asked a friend if he'd like to join me At What Chloe Cooked Next, his first question was "who's Chloe?".  A logical question! Chloe was trained at Leith's and is the woman behind Oxfork - a cafe on Magdalen Road in Oxford which I actually remember visiting for brunch when I lived in the city back in 2014.  Chloe now lives in Charlbury and hosts a semi-regular Friday night pop-up and Sunday brunch, as well as collaborations with other chefs. I arrived on a grey and drizzly evening, a little early (I'd cycled faster than expected!) to find there was already a queue through the garden and out on to the street.  From their own kitchen, Chloe and her husband were serving up an Indian inspired feast featuring tofu yellow curry, braised black beans, seaweed and wild garlic korokke, and cucumber and rhu...

April 2021 Many people told me I was mad planning a weekend in Aberdeen.  "What are you going to do there?!". To me it seemed to have the promise of a cool city with an up and coming food and coffee scene.  And that's just what it is! Impressive, austere granite buildings and suburbs each with their own character.   I set off for the leafy suburbs of the West End, lured by Figment Coffee, who roast beans as well as crafting Aberdeen's best flat white alongside exciting brunch options and cakes.  I particularly enjoyed the summer special Sunshine Brew - orange infused, sparkling cold brew coffee - sunshine in a glass! On the food front, sourdough toast topped with Scottish Crowdie curd cheese, poached pears and rhubarb ketchup was an exciting way to try one of Scotland's most ancient cheeses, whilst  vibrant raspberry and peanut butter overnight oats was everything I wanted after a long run. Find Figment Coffee on Countesswells Road.  They sell their b...

October 2020 I was so excited to come across this peaceful and cosy cafe with it's roaring fire and dappled light pooling on tables by windows.  Hidden down some stone steps within the unassuming Temple Guiting Pantry, discovering it felt like my own little secret. There's a good mix of staples as well as inventive offerings, alongside coffee, tea and freshly squeezed juice.  Eggs Royale with brown butter Hollandaise or corn and kale fritters with black bean and pomegranate salsa, aji verde and chipotle... there are some hard choices to make here!  This is a place to linger, to absorb the tranquility. Find the cafe inside Temple Guiting Pantry, on the square of the village of the same name.  They can provide a leaflet suggesting a 1.5 hour walk through the beautiful Gloucestershire Cotswolds for a pre or post breakfast/ brunch/ lunch stroll, and the shop itself is well worth a browse.

April 2021 I made a short pit stop in the Strathbungo area of Glasgow on my way north, to suss out the coffee scene.  Unfortunately it was a Monday so many places were closed, although this did make choosing very much easier! First up was Grain and Grind.  I didn't plan on it but the eye-catching blue and white striped awning drew me in.  The flat white was pretty good and there was an array of exciting looking sweet treats - cappuccino macaron? Yes please! Sadly I was saving myself for my next stop so I didn't indulge. Continuing through Queen's Park I came to Cafe Strange Brew.  Using Glasgow roasted Dear Green coffee beans, and with a substantial and varied menu, and a window full of baked goods, choices were difficult!  One thing jumped out at me though as it seemed to combine many of my favourite things - haloumi, chilli oil, poached eggs, sourdough and humous...this sounded like deliciousness on a plate (or in a box it being Covid times).  Other optio...

April 2021 I can't remember how on earth I originally came across this place, but I'm so glad that I did.  A real hidden gem, unassumingly tucked away in a residential street behind Stoke Newington High Street.  With it's conservative shop front it would be easy to miss, but whatever you do, don't miss it!  The compact inside has a buzzy neighbourhood vibe, and outside is a lovely, sheltered courtyard. Has Bean coffee is expertly crafted, whether as a pour over or espresso based beverage, and they've taken milk alternatives up a notch with their own home made almond milk. The food is always exceptional - one of those places where you know that whatever you choose will be well executed.  Unusual combinations of bang in season produce means the menu is never dull, whilst keeping things simple enough to really showcase the flavours of quality produce. The French toast is my go to option - thick slices of chewy, tangy Little Bread Pedlar sourdough, usually served with s...

January 2021 At the end of last year, I discovered a book, The Little Library Year.  I saw it advertised in a magazine and thought it sounded right up my street.  I love cooking, I love reading, and this is a book that takes you through each season, suggesting weather appropriate recipes using seasonal ingredients, as well as books suited to the time of year.  A great book to leave on the coffee table and dip in and out of as you please.   I automatically opened it at the front and began reading, but then remembered it was autumn so flicked towards the back and started from there.  Recipes have a short passage talking about the book they were inspired from and I like how my cooking then feels part of a story. In the long, dark days section, there is a whole chapter devoted to toast.  I'm a big toast fan.  So simple, yet so comforting.  Even when I'm not hungry, the smell of toast whets my appetite, and it's truly impossible to ever only have ...

December 2020 For the freshest bread in Pembrokeshire, get yourself down to Crwst.   Often still warm from the oven, the sourdough has a lovely soft texture and a full flavour, making it impossible not to break chunks off and eat it plain on the way home.   The flat white made with the local Bay Coffee Roasters beans is very good, and there is an exciting selection of doughnuts.   Not usually a huge fan of caramel, the salted caramel doughnut deserves a mention for its fluffy texture, silky mousse that bursts out as you bite it, and the little crunch from popcorn adorning the top – a lovely contrast of textures. Find it on Priory Street in Cardigan.   They also serve brunch which I think would definitely be worth a try, and a selection of deli produce – Bay Coffee Roasters beans, creamy Perl Wen from Caws Cenarth Cheese, and the delicious Gethins cider from Maenclochog, amongst other things.

September 2020 In the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is a beautiful long sandy beach and top surf spot.   Just up above the beach, there is a colourful little boat, serving up delicious, unusual and fresh from sea to plate fare.   Why not give weekend brunch a coastal twist with a fish butty?   Freshly caught each day, the fish could be anything from mackerel to plaice to coley.   But whatever the sea lucky dip offers up, it’s sure to be the freshest fish pan fried to order and served in a bun with the famous KelpChup (a ketchup type condiment made from locally foraged seaweed), homemade pickles and seaweed chilli sauce.   Then take a stroll down to the rocks to eat whilst being serenaded by the crashing waves, or get the wind in your hair as you walk across the cliff tops and explore the seaweed drying hut. Find Café Mor in the car park at Freshwater West beach.   They also serve bacon butties, meat and veggie black bean burgers, and crab and lobster ...

November 2019 I pretty much lived in this cafe whilst in Copenhagen.  Everything is pant-based but that certainly doesn't mean their offerings are lacking flavour or creativity - their brunch was a taste sensation!   For the sweet tooth, enormous stacks of fluffy banana pancakes with silky cashew cream and the sweet, tart crunch of freeze dried raspberries.   For the more savoury inclined, a smorgasbord of dehydrated peppers and aubergines, and raw crackers to dip in sweet potato puree and mushroom pate; rice paper rolls with sprouts and pickled red onions; tahini avocado with sweet pops of balsamic pearls; rye and sourdough bread - a feast of nutrients to set you up for the day. The turmeric latte was the best I've ever taste, with the addition of ginger juice giving it an addictive spicy kick. Find it all at Plant Power Food, Copenhagen.

April 2020 Since we can't go out to explore the world at the moment, I have brought the world to me!  Papanasi, cottage cheese 'doughnuts', served with yogurt, berries and a dusting of icing sugar, make a delicious and unusual brunch.  Crispy and hot on the outside, soft and creamy in the middle, they have all the best parts of a doughnut, whilst being light and packed full of protein.  Enjoy!

November 2019 No trip to San Francisco would be complete without a good brunch.   For a bakery lover’s delight, head to Mr Holmes Bakehouse in Lower Nob Hill, great for grabbing brunch on the go.   Think matcha white chocolate coated croissants, cruffins (croissant/ muffin hybrid), churro croissants, crème brulee danishes, and a daily changing donut which can be anything from lemon meringue to smoked bacon and Baileys.   But be quick, they close once they sell out. I found the raspberry buttercream of the raspberry hibiscus croissant overpowered any hibiscus notes and was overly sweet, and the Bostock was also disappointing – crunchy, dry and heavy going.   The lemon meringue donut, though, was a winner.   Oozing with tangy lemon custard and topped with a smooth dome of lightly torched meringue.   Deliciously messy, sticky fingers, sugar coated lips, just how any great donut should be.   It’s lemon meringue pie, it’s a donut, it’s lemon mering...

March 2020 A fusion of cuisines, a jazzed up breakfast, a textures of masala egg.  Cumin, chilli flakes and fresh coriander give Indian tones to your run of the mill omelette, and the same mixture used to make masala eggy bread with chewy sourdough adds texture.  Chuck in some fresh cherry tomatoes to cut through the spices, and you've got a winning brunch.