An Edible Voyage

September 2020 Whilst on a leisurely weekend bike ride from Maenclochog to Newport, through the beautiful Cwm Gwaun valley in north Pembrokeshire, my friend, a born and bred local, suddenly announced that he thought we were approaching Bessie.  Bessie?! Tell me more! It transpired that the characterful land lady of the Dyffryn Arms in Pontfaen, Bessie, is quite the legend, and the pub is now somewhat of an institution, with beer served in jugs from the parlour of an old farmhouse as it has been by Bessie and her family since the 1840s.  Of course we had to pay a visit! A must stop on any trip through Cwm Gwaun.  Find the Dyffryn Arms on the roadside in Pontfaen. 

December 2020 There are plenty of cafes in Carmarthen but sometimes you want something a little bit different, a little bit less run of the mill, a little bit special.  Look no further than Karm'en Kafe.  On a chilly, winter morning, I was in need of some brunch.  Something warm and comforting but tasty and fresh too.  I stumbled across Karm'en Kafe and was greeted by the smell of freshly baking bread and an appealing display of homemade cakes, brownies and mince pies.  I was after something savoury so asked about the sandwiches and was told to come back in 30 minutes because the bread wasn't yet out of the oven.  That's my kind of place - bread so fresh it was still being baked!  After a short walk around the town centre I returned, ordered a Reuben, and was presented with a long bread, longer than my plate, with a deliciously crispy crust, loaded with cheese, pastrami and a mountain of sauerkraut.  Not your classic sandwich but seriously tasty....

December 2020 For the friendliest service and a vast array or Welsh produce, head to Siop Carla just outside Maenclochog.  Food shopping turns from a chore to an enjoyable activity when you can chat with Carla whilst perusing everything from locally roasted coffee and meat reared on nearby farms, to Pembrokeshire chocolate, cheese and cakes.   Highlights for me were the homemade scotch eggs - succulent and not at all greasy, they make a fantastic addition to a picnic or just a great snack, as well as Mary's Farmhouse ice cream.  Available in a selection of unusual yet exciting flavours, such as apricots, walnut and brandy; double chocolate, cherries and fudge; or Caeltic Crunch, alongside the classics, this is ice cream for grown ups as well as kids, churned just down the road in Crymych. Stock up for a picnic or BBQ, or get your hands on some quality ingredients to cook up a seasonal, locally sourced meal. Find Siop Carla on the road between Maenclochog and Pontfaen...

December 2020 Carmarthen has quite a few cafes ready to satisfy you if you aren’t too bothered how you get your caffeine fix.   However, for the coffee snobs amongst us, it has to be Finn’s Coffee Shop.   Hidden away down an alleyway, this small but perfectly formed café has expertly crafted, silky but robust flat whites alongside a tantalising display of the most divine Edan Ash chocolates.   Seriously, these chocolates, crafted just south of Carmarthen in Kidwelly, are exquisite.   The smoothest ganache is combined with exotic flavours which hold their own without overpowering the flavour profile of the high quality cacao, and enrobed in a crisp chocolate shell which shatters as you bite in to it.   Seasonal cinnamon toast, and warming rum and ginger were my favourites. Upstairs is a small, industrially decorated seating area where you can enjoy coffee and chocolates alongside homemade vegan banana bread and toasties.   There is a also a small selecti...

December 2020 For the freshest bread in Pembrokeshire, get yourself down to Crwst.   Often still warm from the oven, the sourdough has a lovely soft texture and a full flavour, making it impossible not to break chunks off and eat it plain on the way home.   The flat white made with the local Bay Coffee Roasters beans is very good, and there is an exciting selection of doughnuts.   Not usually a huge fan of caramel, the salted caramel doughnut deserves a mention for its fluffy texture, silky mousse that bursts out as you bite it, and the little crunch from popcorn adorning the top – a lovely contrast of textures. Find it on Priory Street in Cardigan.   They also serve brunch which I think would definitely be worth a try, and a selection of deli produce – Bay Coffee Roasters beans, creamy Perl Wen from Caws Cenarth Cheese, and the delicious Gethins cider from Maenclochog, amongst other things.

September 2020 In the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is a beautiful long sandy beach and top surf spot.   Just up above the beach, there is a colourful little boat, serving up delicious, unusual and fresh from sea to plate fare.   Why not give weekend brunch a coastal twist with a fish butty?   Freshly caught each day, the fish could be anything from mackerel to plaice to coley.   But whatever the sea lucky dip offers up, it’s sure to be the freshest fish pan fried to order and served in a bun with the famous KelpChup (a ketchup type condiment made from locally foraged seaweed), homemade pickles and seaweed chilli sauce.   Then take a stroll down to the rocks to eat whilst being serenaded by the crashing waves, or get the wind in your hair as you walk across the cliff tops and explore the seaweed drying hut. Find Café Mor in the car park at Freshwater West beach.   They also serve bacon butties, meat and veggie black bean burgers, and crab and lobster ...

December 2020 Alongside the platform of the former Rosebush station is a red, corrugated zinc shed.  What the industrial exterior lacks in cosiness is more than made of for by the homely interior.  Walls adorned with an eclectic array of pictures and sporting memorabilia, straw floors, and soft lighting from the small windows creates an atmosphere where you’ll want to settle in with your locally brewed pint or your hot chocolate laced with the Welsh cream liqueur Merlyn from the Penderyn distillery.

September 2020 Tucked on a corner, opposite the green, in the village of Maenclochog is the unassuming Caffi’r Sgwar Adorned with plastic table cloths and packed with long standing locals, it wasn’t a place I naturally gravitated to.  However a good friend from the next village mentioned in passing that it’s a local institution, so I was immediately sold! If I’m honest, my expectations for a flat white were fairly low, but it was up there with some of the best I’ve had.  I was also expecting a fairly small range of cakes, given the size of the café, and village as a whole, so I was pleasantly taken aback to find a counter bursting with an assortment of homemade brownies (three different flavours as well as gluten free), seasonal cakes, scones, quiches and sausage rolls.  The super fudgey brownies with the slight crunch on top are absolutely divine, and not usually a fan of cold sausage rolls, the delicious meaty, cheesy and slightly sweet taste of the generously stuffed p...