Macaroni Pies and Rowies. Aberdeen, Scotland
April 2021
Before I set off for Scotland, a friend told me that under no circumstance could I leave until I'd tried a Macaroni. Being a big fan of macaroni cheese, I happily accepted this challenge. My main issue was finding one. Although they are widespread, they're not the kind of item to frequent the shelves of the kind of sourdough bakeries and coffee micro roasteries that I gravitate towards. What I needed was one of those traditional, family run since 1964 bakeries full of sandwich loaves and iced buns. Fortunately there are plenty dotted around the streets of Aberdeen, including Thain's which is rumoured to be open 24/7 for all those mid-night pie cravings.
It was exactly as expected - gooey, stodgy macaroni cheese in a pastry case which seemed to serve no purpose other than to make it holdable. I decided I couldn't leave without sampling another Aberdeen essential - the buttery, or rowie. Described as a savoury roll, it lives up to it's name and has a high butter content making it more akin to a not very good, flat croissant, and legend has it that they were invented to provide the fisherman with a good source of energy. Would I have one again? Probably not. But toasted and with jam it was perfectly palatable and definitely something that has to be tried on any trip to Aberdeen.
Find Thain's bakery on George Street. They also do Stovies pies - a traditional meat and potato dish in a pie.
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