An Edible Voyage

Pastel de Nata. Those words alone are likely to spark endless debates on which city, which bakery produces the best, and even what it is that constitutes 'the best'.   I have to say, when trying to choose the coveted 'best' it is a tricky one.  Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon has pasteis de nata as good as you would expect from the place claiming to be the original.  Still using the secret recipe from 1837 when the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos started selling them to raise money for the closing convents and monastery, the tarts have perfectly flaky pastry and ooze creamy custard. Hot on their heels though, is Manteigaria, with shops in both Lisbon and Porto.  Watch the bakers as they work, and eat hot from the oven perfect tarts, filled to the brim with caramelised custard.  They also serve a delicious breakfast bowl with oats, berries and nut butter if you feel you need some breakfast before your pastel de nata...but I won't judge you if these glorious tarts are your...

March 2021 It seems I came late to the party on the concept of baked oats - apparently they have been a 'thing' for quite some time, and understandably so. When breakfast looks like dessert, it's proof that breakfast is the best meal of the day!  Add in the quick and easy preparation, and we're on to a winner. Simply blend 30g almonds, 40g oats, 1 tsp nut butter, 1 tbsp cocoa powder, sprinkling of cinnamon, ½ tsp baking powder, ½ banana and 200ml milk.  Pour in to an ovenproof dish, poke in a few chunks of dark chocolate if you're feeling extra decadent, and bake at 200C for 20-25 mins.  What you get is a comforting sort of porridge souffle, warming, satisfying and nutritious but with all the taste and texture of naughtiness. This is a great one for experimenting with flavour combinations - why not try vanilla and nut butter, or let your imagination run wild.

September 2020 Whilst on a leisurely weekend bike ride from Maenclochog to Newport, through the beautiful Cwm Gwaun valley in north Pembrokeshire, my friend, a born and bred local, suddenly announced that he thought we were approaching Bessie.  Bessie?! Tell me more! It transpired that the characterful land lady of the Dyffryn Arms in Pontfaen, Bessie, is quite the legend, and the pub is now somewhat of an institution, with beer served in jugs from the parlour of an old farmhouse as it has been by Bessie and her family since the 1840s.  Of course we had to pay a visit! A must stop on any trip through Cwm Gwaun.  Find the Dyffryn Arms on the roadside in Pontfaen. 

March 2021 There are 100s, possibly 1000s, of places to buy a coffee in Newcastle, but how to find the great amongst the good? Let me point you in the direction of   Pink Lane Coffee.   With a café that oozes cool on, you guessed it, Pink Lane, this speciality coffee roasters is dedicated to sourcing and roasting the best single origin and responsibly sourced beans from growers around the world. With their rotating filter coffees, as well as all the espresso-based classics, there’s something for every mood.   And with their white, milk and dark hot chocolate options, even non-coffee drinkers could be persuaded to venture in. Find Pink Lane Coffee on Pink Lane, almost opposite the central station.

March 2021 Bakergirl. “If you know, you know” they say, and I think this perfectly sums up what has become quite the Oxfordshire institution.   Starting life as a farmshop café at Wykham Park Farm, and baking flavoursome sourdough loaves, cheese and marmite scrolls, and all manner of cakes, pastries and buns, they appeared in the old thatched post office in the quintessential Cotswold village of Great Tew following a brief hiatus.   At both venues, no matter the time or day, queues of locals as well as those who’d travelled from a afar for the legendary cinnamon buns, snaked out of the door and around the farm/ village green. Deciding to switch things up so as being able to maintain their baking dream whilst minimising the unsociable baker’s hours, they moved fully to their bakehouse in Wroxton to focus on pop-ups.   Sourdough pizza Saturdays, with home made salted caramel gelato and ‘sides’ of loaves of sourdough, milk loaves or whatever else takes their baking fancy...

November 2020 It seems that creativity with vegetarian and vegan foods these days is exploding and some of the most exciting flavour combinations I've come across recently are in these cuisines.  So when researching food stops for my weekend in Newcastle, Little Green Social was high on my list.  On a lovely, leafy Sandyford street close to Heaton Park, the family-run Little Green Social serves up all things vegan - think pizzas, doughnuts, Sunday roasts, and burgers made with the chef's homemade tempeh.   The Celeriac Reuben caught my eye and oh boy was it good - probably winning the coveted title of the most delicious sandwich I've ever eaten! Creamy salt baked celeriac, punchy sauerkraut, oozy cheese, and the tastiest poppy seed rye.  I left Newcastle wishing I lived close to this place so I could have it on an at least weekly basis! Find the Little Green Social on Goldspink Lane in Sandyford.

March 2021 Baking isn't generally my thing.  I think it's because it requires patience and precision which isn't really my style of cooking... I'm more of a chuck together what I have to hand, substitutions galore, measuring by eye and judging when something is cooked by smell sort of cook.  But these madeleines looked very appealing, the recipe seemed quick and easy, promising speedy pleasure.  And, most importantly, they incorporated treacle.  I'd been on the hunt for a use for my treacle having bought a tin for another recipe and then wondering what on earth I was going to do with the other 98% of it.   I was also probably swayed by it being a Nadiya Hussain recipe - her adventurous combinations, and British classics fused with exotic flavours really resonates with me. The recipe actually includes star anise, and grapefruit syllabub for dipping, but I didn't have star anise so left that out, nor cream so I replaced with yogurt (and told myself that was h...

November 2020 I'm a real fan of oysters - that refreshing saltiness that's like no other, like gulping down a breath of sea air.  When I lived in Melbourne, one of my guilty pleasures was go to the South Melbourne Market and choose myself a couple of $1 oysters to eat then and there, standing at the market stall.  So when I saw a sign for The Oyster Shed in Carbost, I had to check it out.   Paul opened The Oyster Shed in 2012, selling the oysters which he farms in Loch Harport to give everyone the opportunity to enjoy fresh Hebredian seafood.  As well as oysters, there's a wide variety of both hot and cold seafood and fish to enjoy there, perched around the occasional tables.  Grab a plate and stand outside, looking over the loch with the breeze in your hair as you savour the freshest local produce. There's also a deli style shop with an enticing display of bisques, pates, smoked and fresh fish, and some basics such as Arborio rice so you can rustle up a de...

March 2021 I find it easy to slip in to a routine of having the same few things for lunch on rotation.  Whilst all these things are perfectly nice, I decided it was time to delve in to my folder of recipes.  After all, I'd ripped them out of magazines because I wanted to try them, not just to gather dust in my cupboard! Flicking through, beetroot wraps jumped out at me - as in the wrap itself made from beetroot.  They looked so colourful, definitely something a bit different, and seemed surprisingly quick and easy to make.  The worst part was grating the beetroot, but even that wasn't as bad as I was anticipating as only a small amount is needed. 35g grated beetroot, 150g of buckwheat flour (I whizzed my buckwheat in a blender as I didn't have any buckwheat flour, 125g yogurt and 1 tsp of chia seeds (the recipe, from Ocado, called for xanthan gum but who has that lying around), plus seasoning to taste, squished in to a dough, rolled out and cooked in a hot, dry pan....

November 2020 My first visit to Newcastle upon Tyne meant the excitement of researching the bakery, coffee and general food scene.  Small batch microbakeries with exceptional hand crafted baked goods are the places of my dreams, so Northern Rye was top of my list, and I planned my journey to arrive in Newcastle at dawn on a Saturday so I could be first in line! I underestimated the popularity of this place though - it seems since opening on the river bank in Byker in June 2020, Northern Rye has gained a dedicated fan base.  Following the Ouseburn through Newcastle's creative quarter with its old warehouses sympathetically refurbished in to contemporary housing and office space, I could see the queue long before I could see Northern Rye!  The riverside spot made for a scenic location for some weekend people watching and the wait was more than worth it.  I was greeted with a handsome display of coconut and blackcurrant croissants, ginger and fennel buns, deliciously me...

March 2021 I've always been a big fan of bagels.  I even tried making my own bagels a couple of times - there's something very satisfying about watching them bob in a pan of boiling water.  But I recently discovered bagels on a whole other level.  With a soft and chewy centre, an almost caramelised crust and more flavour than I can understand how it's possible to get in to what is essentially just a ring of bread, I'm rapidly getting addicted to One Daily Bagel bagels.  I ate both the plain, and salt and pepper ones straight from the bag, no toppings, no toasting, they were that good.  There's also poppy seed, sesame seed, and cinnamon and raisin - it's fine to have a 2 course bagel meal with this as the 'dessert' right!? Hand crafted by the super friendly Esme, straight from the US, these really are perfect bagels.  Not only are they outrageously delicious, these small-batch authentic American bagels are a shiny object of beauty as well. Order direct by...

November 2020 Stroll around Portree, the capital of Skye, and enjoy the gentle lapping of the Loch against the row of picturesque pastel houses perched on the water's edge.  Then head to Birch Cafe for one of the best coffees on the island - expert extraction of locally roasted Skye Coffee Roasters beans alongside perfectly steam milk, served in a beautiful, locally made ceramics.  Sit at the counter in the window and watch the world go by whilst contemplating the eye catching, rock music inspired coasters. There is also a selection of homemade cakes and bakes (I had to get 2 because I couldn't decide!), and sandwiches and toasties made with Skye Bakehouse sourdough. Find Birch Cafe on Bayfield Road.

November 2020 For all things smoked, you can't miss the Ullapool Smokehouse, a traditional smokery in the fishing village of Ullapool.  Using just salmon, salt and smoke, will you opt for malt whisky cold smoked salmon or heather honey hot roast salmon?  Whichever you go for, you'll be assured the highest quality combined with the distinctive flavours of Scotland.  For cheese lovers, I also highly recommend the very moorish oak smoked mature Scottish cheese. Find Ullapool Smokehouse on the edge of the town in the Morefield industrial estate.

November 2020 To devour some of Scotland's freshest fish and seafood head to the picturesque fishing village of Ullapool, and tucked off the street, overlooking the ferry port, you'll find The Seafood Shack.  Opened by local girls Kirsty and Fenella, and cooking up fish caught on the inshore fishing boats, this truck has been featured in Mary Berry's 'Everyday Life' series, as well as winning BBC Radio Four's Best Street Food, and it's easy to see why.  Fresh and locally caught seafood is cooked simply and to order, showcasing and complementing the flavours of the fish itself. I found it extremely difficult to choose between Cullen Skink, simply seared scallops or the fish wrap, but eventually decided on the latter.  It was divine.  An enormous piece of the fresher, flakiest haddock in hot and crispy tempura, wrapped up with peppery rocket and zingy but luxurious pesto mayo. A beautiful piece of fish. Find The Seafood Shack on West Argyle Street.

November 2020 Behind it's retro sign, the Cairn Hotel in Carrbridge is one of those wonderfully charming places that reminds me of childhood holidays - patterned carpets, creaky stairs, a plentiful tea and coffee station in the room, and the warmest hospitality.  I particularly liked the nod to a Scottish teatime favourite with a Tunnock's caramel wafer in every room. Breakfast was a particular highlight.  My first experience of a full Scottish breakfast and it set the bar high!  I made sure to make space for it by going on a morning run to explore the beautiful local scenery and enjoy the vibrant autumn colours, discovering the most picturesque stone bridge along the way.  And I'm glad I did! Kicking off with a huge, steaming bowl of traditional Scottish porridge which has a pinch of salt.  I was a little dubious as porridge to me has always been in the 'sweet' category, even when plain.  It was delicious though, and I'm a definite convert to going Scottis...

November 2020 Even in the rugged landscapes of the Isle of Skye it's good to find a great coffee to fuel days of exploring picturesque landscapes and medieval castles, and Caora Dhubh is just that place.  Translating to Black Sheep in Scottish Gaelic, this wooden shack, perched on the edge of Loch Harport, serves excellent espresso based coffee from Artisan Coffee Roasters in Edinburgh, alongside locally made chocolate, and Eteaket tea from Edinburgh.   Find it opposite the Tallisker distillery and enjoy a cup sitting on the water's edge, gazing out over the loch.  They also have a selection of baked treats.

November 2020 Doughnuts seem to have suddenly become a thing.  I'm sure a few years ago they were restricted to the sugar sprinkled rings or jam oozing balls from supermarket bakery counters or fairs.  Now places are vying for the best - the more outrageous the flavour combination, or elaborate the decoration, the better it seems. Perk in Inverness is fully on board with this latest trends.  6 flavours each month, usually with a vegan offering, ranging from simple but perfectly executed cinnamon dusted rings, pillowy and warm from the fryer, to decadent Kinder inspired hazelnut ganache inside a doughnut that's topped with white chocolate, hazelnut crumble and a stick of Bueno.  There's usually at least one fruity offering, as well as something to satisfy even the most adventurous, like the Breakfast of Champions maple and bacon doughnut.   Coffee is from the Dear Green coffee roasters in Glasgow, and there is also a menu of crispy toasties with a variety of...