An Edible Voyage

 August 2019 It would take quite some time to sample every gelateria in Porto, but if you only have time for one, make it Gelataria Portuense.  The Classics menu, featuring all-time favourites such as vanilla, chocolate and straciatella, site alongside the Collection menu – think Tawny Port with pear and caramelised nuts, Earl Grey tea, goats cheese with cinnamon and tomato compote… there really is a flavour to suit every mood and season.  With super silky textures, powerful but not overpowering flavours, and an upmarket yet whimsical vibe, this is one gelataria not to miss.    Find it on Rua do Bonjardim.

 August 2019 Porto’s iconic monster sandwich.  A meat lover’s heaven, an artery’s hell.  A Croque Madame on steroids.  Ham, juicy steak and a couple of sausages for good measure, stuffed between two slices of bread, topped with melting cheese, smothered in a rich spiced tomato and beer sauce, and crowned with a fried egg.  With restaurants and bars vying for the best Francesinha in Porto, I was keen to taste one of these beasts, but also slightly intimidated by the sight of it – it’s definitely one to share with a friend (or 3!).  It was a little mono-textured and bland for my liking, but it’s an experience not to be missed when spending a few days in the home of the francesinha.   Find it at most restaurants and bars in Porto, although I highly recommend Cervejaria Brasao.  Popular with tourists and locals alike, this brew house has a buzzing vibe and brews their own selection of beer to accompany high quality food – even the complimentary brea...

 August 2019 For a relaxed evening with a buzzy vibe, look no further than Ta Gente.   Delicious sharing plates, expertly crafted cocktails and a mind-boggling gin selection awaits at this cosy but cool bar restaurant, with it’s industrial, arty feel.   Sink in to the sofas in a dimly lit corner for a pre-dinner tipple, or nab yourself a table and get sharing! Find it on Rua Manual Ignacio Correia in Ponta Delgada.

 August 2019 Being so close to the sea at all times on Sao Miguel, you will no doubt have cravings for fresh fish and seafood at some point.   At Gastronomo, an atmospheric local’s restaurant 20 minutes walk along the sea front from Ponta Delgada centre, the fish that is cooked is up to you.   You discuss with the waiter the kind of fish you’re after and they will bring a selection to your table.   Once you’ve made your choice, it’s taken to the chef to whip up a feast. Find Gastronomo on Rua da Boa Nova, less than a mile east of Ponta Delgada’s centre.

 August 2019 It quickly becomes apparent that Furnas is focussed around lunch.   Crowds begin to gather around the sleepy geothermal lake just before midday in anticipation.   Huge cauldrons of bubbling stew are hauled up from holes in the ground, slow cooked by the geothermal activity.   Each restaurant has their own hole, marked with a small flag, and it’s an early start for restaurant owners.   Taking their cauldrons down to the lake at sunrise, they are buried in time to allow around 7 hours of slow cooking before loading them in to vans to drive to their restaurant where lunch is served.    Quite the spectacle! The flavours of all manner of meats and root vegetable, including carrots, sweet potatoes, cabbage, taro root, pig ears, chorizo, chicken, beef, pork belly and black pudding, mingle together and are served with a selection of surgical-looking implements to attack it with.   The experience is definitely more enjoyable than the ...

 August 2019 Furnas has a lot going for it - volcanoes, geothermal lakes, and thermal baths to wallow in.   The town itself has a bustling main street and an array of restaurants serving the famous cozida, but if it’s morning coffee and baked goods you’re after, there’s a cute little bakery with bolos levedos, the local sweet version of an English muffin, fresh from the oven; espresso based coffee; and a tempting display of Portuguese sweet treats.   Of course there are the usual suspects, queijadas and pasteis de nata, as well as chocolate cake, orange queijadas and sweet bean queijadas.   With a couple of tables to enjoy your coffee and morning sugar hit, it’s a great place to watch the hustle and bustle of Furnas. Find it as Gloria Moniz on Rua Vasco Bensaude in Furnas.

 August 2019 As you can imagine on a sub-tropical island, there is no shortage of ice cream – the test is finding those that really stand out as the cream of the cone!   I’ve done the hard work for you (it was a struggle, it really was) and I can say that the best by a long way is La Gelateria (if we’re talking purely ice cream, the service can be a little hit and miss).   The many, regularly changing flavours, ranging from the classics to the exotic, are generously scooped from stainless steel tubs in to your choice of waffle cone, wafer cone or tub.   Go local with green tea from the nearby Gorreana plantation; mix it up with yogurt, honey and nut; go fruity with peach and rose sorbet; or keep it simple with mint chocolate. Find it in Ponta Delgada on Rua Doutor Bruno Tavares Carreiro.   The shop is light and airy, and there are plenty of tables for a well earned rest after a day of sightseeing.   La Gelateria also serves milkshakes, crepes and artisa...

 August 2019 Comur is somewhat of an institution in Portugal, and the Azores aren’t left out, with Ponta Delgada having it’s own branch.   This shop sells nothing but tinned fish, colourful cans filling the walls, floor to ceiling.   The most succulent tuna is sold in golden tins that look just like a solid bar of gold, and sardine cans are available with individual designs for each year of the last century, marking an event that was celebrated that year.   Whether you like fish or not, this unusually and intriguingly designed shop should not be missed. Find it on Rua do Melo in Ponta Delgada.

 August 2019 INTZ 48 is one of those places which manages to do lots of things well.   Out back, they roast their own coffee to be enjoyed as part of a full range of espresso based and filter coffees, or as bags to be taken home, and they have a tempting array of cakes, pastries and tarts.   It was, however, the ice lolly counter that drew me back time and time again.   Fruits and herbs combined in to colourful, refreshing lollies – think pineapple and mint, strawberry, and even sweet tomato and basil.   For the more decadent, there are ice cream lollies and vats of molten milk, white and dark chocolate which can be drizzled over the lollies, instantly freezing to give a thick, smooth and luscious coating that satisfyingly cracks as you take a bite. Find it on Rua Hintze Ribeiro, one of the maze of pretty, cobbled streets in Ponta Delgada.

 August 2019 On an island as hot and humid as Sao Miguel, it’s little wonder that pineapples thrive.   As interesting as it was to see how pineapples grow (I’d never really considered it before, and the baby ones are very sweet), my main motivation for visiting the Aruda plantation was to sample the wide range of edible and drinkable creations, made from their very own crop.   I kept things simple with a carafe of sweet yet refreshing pineapple juice, and a huge chunk of moist, sticky pineapple cake – both delicious and fresh without a hint of artificial flavouring. The Arruda pineapple plantation is in the suburbs of Ponta Delgada.   It’s possible to walk inside the greenhouses to see pineapples at all stages of maturity, and there is a shop selling their home made pineapple liquor and pineapple jam amongst the touristy souvenirs.

  August 2019 Queijadas.   Mention that word in the Azores and you’re sure to start a debate about which island, village or bakery makes the best.   These 2 bite sized sweet treats are a feature at almost every café, bar and shop on Sao Miguel, and having sampled my fair share, I’m on team Queijada de Vila Franco do Campo.   Originally made by nun’s at the convent as a use for surplus egg yolks when the whites were used to starch their habits, these crisp, buttery pastry tarts are filled with a soft, almost gooey mixture of milk, egg yolks and sugar, with a texture not dissimilar to frangipane.   Head to Queijadas da Vila of Adelino Morgado and Daughters in Vila Franco do Campo to watch queijadas being made by the Morgado family to the secret recipe, handed down from generation to generation, whilst you enjoy one (or two!).   They also sell boxes to take home so you can stock up when you (inevitably) become addicted to these sugary delights.

 August 2019 You don’t have to go far on Sao Miguel island before finding a bifana.   In a roll, toasted, from a street stall or restaurant, this humble pork sandwich varies greatly.   My favourite was from Sunset Poco da Pedra in Mosteiros, a coastal shack nestled just above the crashing Atlantic waves, with the most glorious view of sparkling blue sea and natural swimming pools, and a great place to watch the comings and goings of the promenade. So simple but so utterly delicious, strips of pork marinated in a blend of spices are grilled and sandwiched in a baguette, then pressed under a grill under it’s hot and crispy and dripping with lip smacking juices.   With the sun on your face, a gentle sea breeze in your hair, and a buzzy vibe, this is a moment of pure pleasure.   Find it along the promenade at Mosteiros beach, just east from the natural swimming pools.