Clam Chowder. Northern Coast California, USA

November 2019

Originally brought over with European settlers and with recipes handed down through generations, there is much debate over where to get the best clam chowder.  In Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, there are many stalls claiming to be the oldest or the best, serving their chowder in a sourdough bread bowl.  Being addicted to bread, I thought this was going to be a winner, but was disappointed to find the bread to be dry and crumbly, and the chowder gloopy.  Hands down the best one was from Café Aquatica in Jenner, an eccentric place selling locally roasted coffee beans.  Not only was the chowder a delicious textural delight – hot, creamy, garlicky, big chunks of soft potato, the slight crunch from celery and super crispy croutons, the setting was beautiful.  Jenner is on the Russian river so you can slurp your chowder out in the sun, looking out over the sparkling blue water dotted with kayakers, and Penny Island.  Other than the café, an inn and the kayak hire, there isn’t a great deal else to Jenner, but I loved the relaxed vibe and could easily while away an afternoon with a coffee, chowder and a good book.