Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay


January 2020


Colonia is a super cute town with a Portuguese vibe, and I highly recommend popping over from Buenos Aires for lunch – it’s only an hour on the ferry across the Rio de la Plata.  With cobbled streets, trees bearing brightly coloured flowers, pastel painted buildings, and the air filled with birdsong, it’s a tranquil retreat from the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires.



Where to go and what to have?
For a sophisticated lunch, head to Charco Bistro.  On a cobbled lane, overlooking the river, the vine covered conservatory has an inside/ outside feel and serves modern interpretations of local staples.  Go for the sweetbreads – every bite a complex melange.  The rich meatiness of the sweetbreads themselves, caramelised to give a contrasting texture, the spicyness of the soft and sticky black pudding and a refreshing sliver of pear (I was disappointed to see such a thin slice, but the flavour did come through).  There was also a smear of cashew cream, but sadly not enough to comment on how it contributed to the dish – I was desperately trying to scrape enough off the plate to really taste it.  I think the savouriness would have balanced the meatiness perfectly, but it did seem rich so maybe that’s why there was so little. I paired this dish with a glass of local Tannat wine from a vineyeard in Colonia.  Cool, light and refreshing, with a hint of smoky spiciness, cherries and light tannins – perfect for warm weather although maybe not quite enough body to cut through the richness of the sweetbreads.

Maltik Beer
Brewed in Uruguay, the Irish Red is a seriously tasty beer.  Smooth, a little fruity and a distinctive enough taste to be delicious without overpowering.  Highly recommended! Find it at Charco Bistro.



Travel tips
Colonia del Sacramento is only a 10-15 minute walk from the ferry terminal, and is great for just wandering around soaking up the vibe – stick to the old town on the west side.  You can also walk out in to the harbour along the pier.  When you first arrive, grab a coffee and medialuna at Deli De Las Rosas with pretty tea cups and floral table cloths.  This deli also sells all sorts of exciting and unusual teas, flours and nut butters.

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